Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils and aroma compounds, fixatives, and solvents used to give the human body, objects, and living spaces a pleasant smell The amount and type of solvent mix with the fragrance oil dictates whether a perfume is considered a perfume extract, Eau de parfum, Eau de toilette, or Eau de Cologne
It is impossible to describe a perfume according to its components because the formulas are kept secret Even if the formulas are known, the ingredients are often too numerous to provide a useful classification Cognoscenti can, however, generally get a handle on the principal ingredients On the other hand, it is possible to group perfumes into olfactive families and describe them through the notes that appear as they slowly evaporate Perfumes can also be classified according to their concentration [1][2] [3]
[edit] Olfactive families
Fragrances can be classified into several olfactive families, by the themes, or accords, of these fragrances
Floral: Fragrances that are dominated by the scent of one or more types of flowers When only one flower is used, it is called a soliflore (as in Dior's Diorissimo, with lily of the valley)
Chypre: Fragrances built on a similar accord consisting of bergamot, oakmoss, pachouli, and labdanum This family of fragrances is named after a perfume by François Coty by the same name Meaning Cyprus in French, the term alludes to the inspiration behind the original creation
Aldehydic: Fragrances that incorporate the family of chemicals known as aldehydes Chanel No 5 was the first aldehydic perfume (created by the French perfumer Ernest Beaux in 1921) Others include Je Reviens and Arpege Aldehydic perfumes have the characteristic "piquant" note produced by materials like Aldehyde C12 MNA
Fougère: Fragrances built on a base of lavender, coumarin and oakmoss This fragrance family is named after Houbigant's Fougère Royale, which pioneered the use of this base Many men's fragrances belong to this family of fragrances, which is characterized by its sharp herbaceous and woody scent
Leather: A family of fragrances which features the scents honey, tobacco, wood, and wood tars in its middle or base notes and a scent that alludes to leather
Woody: Fragrances that are dominated by the woody scents, typically of sandalwood and cedar Patchouli, with its camphoraceous smell, is commonly found in these perfumes
Orientals or ambers: A large fragrance class featuring the scents of vanilla and animal scents together with flowers and woods Can be enhanced by camphorous oils and incense resins, which bring to mind Victorian era imagery of the Middle East and Far East
Citrus: An old fragrance family that until recently consisted mainly of "freshening" eau de colognes due to the low tenacity of citrus scents Development of newer fragrance compounds has allowed for the creation of primarily citrus fragrances
[edit] Fragrance notes
A mixture of alcohol and water is used as the solvent for the aromatics On application, body heat causes the solvent to quickly disperse, leaving the fragrance to evaporate gradually over several hours The rate of evaporation (vapor pressure) and the odor strength of the compound partly determine the tenacity of the compound and determine its perfume note classification
Top notes: Scents that are perceived immediately on application of a perfume Top notes create the scents that form a person's initial impression of a perfume Because of this, they are very important in the selling of a perfume The scents of this note class are usually described as "fresh," "assertive" or "sharp" The compounds that contribute to top notes are strong in scent, very volatile, and evaporate quickly Citrus and ginger scents are common top notes
Heart notes or Middle notes: The scent of a perfume that emerges after the top notes dissipate The heart note compounds form the "heart" or main body of a perfume and act to mask the often unpleasant initial impression of base notes, which become more pleasant with time Not surprisingly, the scent of heart note compounds is usually more mellow and "rounded" Scents from this note class appear anywhere from 2 minutes to 1 hour after the application of a perfume Lavender and rose scents are typical heart notes Top notes and heart notes are sometimes described together as Head notes
Base notes: The scent of a perfume that appears after the departure of the top notes The base and middle notes together are the main theme of a perfume Base notes bring depth and solidness to a perfume Compounds of this class are often the fixatives used to hold and boost the strength of the lighter top and heart notes The compounds of this class of scents are typically rich and "deep" and are usually not perceived until 30 minutes after the application of the perfume or during the period of perfume dry-down Musk, vetiver and scents of plant resins are commonly used as base notes
[edit] Concentration and composition
Perfumes oils, or the "juice" of perfume composition, are diluted with a suitable solvent to make the perfume more usable This is done because undiluted oils (natural or synthetic) contain high concentrations of volatile components that will likely result in allergic reactions and possibly injury when applied directly to skin or clothing
Although dilutions of the perfume oil can be done using solvents such as jojoba, fractionated coconut oil, and wax, the most common solvents for perfume oil dilution is ethanol or a mixture of ethanol and water The percent of perfume oil by volume in a perfume is listed as follows:
Perfume extract: 20%-40% aromatic compounds
Eau de parfum: 10-30% aromatic compounds
Eau de toilette: 5-20% aromatic compounds
Eau de cologne: 2-3% aromatic compounds
As the percentage of aromatic compounds decreases, the intensity and longevity of the scent decrease It should be noted that different perfumeries or perfume houses assign different amounts of oils to each of their perfumes As such, although the oil concentration of a perfume in eau de parfum (EDP) dilution will necessarily be higher than the same perfume in eau de toilette (EDT) form, the same trends may not necessarily apply to different perfume compositions much less across different perfume houses
Furthermore, some fragrances with the same product name but having a different concentration name may not only differ in their dillutions, but actually use different perfume oil mixtures altogether For instance, in order to make the EDT version of a fragrance brighter and fresher than its EDP, the EDT oil may be "tweaked" to contain slightly more top notes or less base notes In some cases, words such as "extrême" or "concentrée" appended to frangrance names might indicate completely different frangrances that relates only because of a similar perfume accord An instance to this would be Chanel‘s Pour Monsieur and Pour Monsieur Concentrée
[edit] Natural and synthetic aromatics
[edit] Plant sources
Plants have long been used in perfumery as a source of essential oils and aroma compounds These aromatics are usually secondary metabolites produced by plants as protection against herbivores, infections, as well as to attract pollinators Plants are by far the largest source of fragrant compounds used in perfumery The sources of these compounds may be derived from various parts of a plant A plant can offer more than one source of aromatics, for instance the aerial portions and seeds of coriander have remarkably different odors from each other Orange leaves, blossoms, and fruit zest are the respective sources of petit grain, neroli, and orange oils
Flowers and blossoms: Undoubtedly the largest source of aromatics Includes the flowers of several species of rose and jasmine, as well as osmanthus, mimosa, tuberose, as well as the blossoms of citrus and ylang-ylang trees Although not traditionally thought of as a flower, the unopened flower buds of the clove are also commonly used Orchid flowers are not commercially used to produce essential oils or absolutes, except in the case of vanilla, an orchid, which must be pollinated first and made into seed pods before use in perfumery
Leaves and twigs: Commonly used for perfumery are lavender leaf, patchouli, sage, violets, rosemary, and citrus leaves Sometimes leaves are valued for the "green" smell they bring to perfumes, examples of this include hay and tomato leaf
Roots, rhizomes and bulbs: Commonly used terrestrial portions in perfumery include iris rhizomes, vetiver roots, various rhizomes of the ginger family
Seeds: Commonly used seeds include tonka bean, coriander, caraway, cocoa, nutmeg, mace, cardamom, and anise
Fruits: Fresh fruits such as apples, strawberries, cherries unfortunately do not yield the expected odors when extracted; if such fragrance notes are found in a perfume, they are synthetic Notable exceptions include litsea cubeba, vanilla, and juniper berry The most commonly used fruits yield their aromatics from the rind; they include citrus such as oranges, lemons, limes, and grapefruit
Woods: Highly important in providing the base notes to a perfume, wood oils and distillates are indispensable in perfumery Commonly used woods include sandalwood, rosewood, agarwood, birch, cedar, juniper, and pine
Bark: Commonly used barks includes cinnamon and cascarilla The fragrant oil in sassafras root bark is also used either directly or purified for its main constituent, safrole, which is used in the synthesis of other fragrant compounds such as helional
Resins: Valued since antiquity, resins have been widely used in incense and perfumery Highly fragrant and antiseptic resins and resin-containing perfumes have been used by many cultures as medicines for a large variety of ailments Commonly used resins in perfumery include labdanum, frankincense/olibanum, myrrh, Peru balsam, gum benzoin Pine and fir resins are a particularly valued source of terpenes used in the organic synthesis of many other synthetic or naturally occurring aromatic compounds Some of what is called amber and copal in perfumery today is the resinous secretion of fossil conifers
Lichens: Commonly used lichen includes oakmoss and treemoss thalli
[edit] Animal sources
Musk: Originally derived from the musk sacs from the Asian musk deer, it has now been replaced by the use of synthetic musks due to its price and ethical issues
Civet: Also called Civet Musk, this is obtained from the odorous sacs of the civets, animals in the family Viverridae, related to the Mongoose
Castoreum: Obtained from the odorous sacs of the North American beaver
Ambergris: Lumps of oxidized fatty compounds, whose precursors were secreted and expelled by the Sperm Whale Ambergris is commonly referred as "amber" in perfumery and should not be confused with yellow amber, which is used in jewelry
Honeycomb: Distilled from the honeycomb of the Honeybee
[edit] Synthetic sources
Synthetic aromatics are created through organic synthesis from various chemical compounds that are obtained from petroleum distillates, pine resins, or other relatively cheap organic feedstock Synthetics can provide fragrances which are not found in nature For instance, Calone, a compound of synthetic origin, imparts a fresh ozonous metallic marine scent that is widely used in contemporary perfumes Synthetic aromatics are often used as an alternate source of compounds that are not easily obtained from natural sources For example, linalool and coumarin are both naturally occurring compounds that can be cheaply synthesized from terpenes Orchid scents (typically salicylates) are usually not obtained directly from the plant itself but are instead synthetically created to match the fragrant compounds found in various orchids
The majority of the world's synthetic aromatics are created by relatively few companies They include:
International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF)
Givaudan
Firmenich
Quest International
Takasago
Symrise
Mane SA
CPL
Each of these companies patent several processes for the production of aromatic synthetics annually
See Aroma compound
[edit] Obtaining natural odorants
Main article: Extraction (fragrance)
Before perfumes can be composed, the odorants used in various perfume compositions must first be obtained Synthetic odorants are produced through organic synthesis and purified Odorants from natural sources require the use of various methods to extract the aromatics from the raw materials The results of the extraction are either essential oils, absolutes, concretes, or butters, depending on the amount of waxes in the extracted product [4]
All these techniques will to a certain extent, distort the odour of the aromatic compounds obtained from the raw materials This is due to the use of heat, harsh solvents, or through exposure to oxygen in the extraction process which will denature the aromatic compounds, which either change their odour character or renders them odourless
Maceration/Solvent extraction: The most used and economically important technique for extracting aromatics in the modern perfume industry Raw materials are submerged in a solvent that can dissolve the desired aromatic compounds Maceration lasts anywhere from hours to months Fragrant compounds for woody and fibrous plant materials are often obtained in this manner as are all aromatics from animal sources The technique can also be used to extract odorants that are too volatile for distillation or easily denatured by heat Commonly used solvents for maceration/solvent extraction include hexane, and dimethyl ether The product of this process is called a "concrete"
Supercritical fluid extraction: A relatively new technique for extracting fragrant compounds from a raw material, which often employ Supercritical CO2 Due to the low heat of process and the relatively unreactive solvent used in the extraction, the fragrant compounds derived often closely resemble the original odour of the raw material
Ethanol extraction: A type of solvent extraction used to extract fragrant compounds directly from dry raw materials, as well as the impure oily compounds materials resulting from solvent extraction or enfleurage Ethanol extraction is not used to extract fragrance from fresh plant materials since these contain large quantities of water, which will also be extracted into the ethanol
Distillation: A common technique for obtaining aromatic compounds from plants, such as orange blossoms and roses The raw material is heated and the fragrant compounds are re-collected through condensation of the distilled vapour
Steam distillation: Steam from boiling water is passed through the raw material, which drives out their volatile fragrant compounds The condensate from distillation are settled in a Florentine flask This allows for the easy separation of the fragrant oils from the water The water collected from the condensate, which retains some of the fragrant compounds and oils from the raw material is called hydrosol and sometimes sold This is most commonly used for fresh plant materials such as flowers, leaves, and stems
Dry/destructive distillation: The raw materials are directly heated in a still without a carrier solvent such as water Fragrant compounds that are released from the raw material by the high heat often undergo anhydrous pyrolysis, which results in the formation of different fragrant compounds, and thus different fragrant notes This method is used to obtain fragrant compounds from fossil amber and fragrant woods where an intentional "burned" or "toasted" odour is desired
Expression: Raw material is squeezed or compressed and the oils are collected Of all raw materials, only the fragrant oils from the peels of fruits in the citrus family are extracted in this manner since the oil is present in large enough quantities as to make this extraction method economically feasible
Enfleurage: Absorption of aroma materials into wax and then extracting the odorous oil with alcohol Extraction by enfleurage was commonly used when distillation was not possible due to the fact that some fragrant compounds denature through high heat This technique is not commonly used in the present day industry due to its prohibitive cost and the existence of more efficient and effective extraction methods [2]
[edit] Fragrant extracts
Although fragrant extracts are known to the general public as the generic term "essential oils", a more specific language is used in the fragrance industry to describe the source, purity, and technique used to obtain a particular fragrant extract
Of these extracts, only absolutes, essential oils, and tinctures are directly used to formulate perfumes
Absolute: Fragrant materials that are purified from a pommade or concrete by soaking them in ethanol By using a slightly hydrophilic compound such as ethanol, most of the fragrant compounds from the waxy source materials can be extracted without dissolving any of the fragrantless waxy molecules Absolutes are usually found in the form of an oily liquid
Concrete: Fragrant materials that have been extracted from raw materials through solvent extraction using volatile hydrocarbons Concretes usually contain a large amount of wax due to the ease in which the solvents dissolve various hydrophobic compounds As such concretes are usually further purified through distillation or ethanol based solvent extraction Concretes are typically either waxy or resinous solids or thick oily liquids
Essential oil: Fragrant materials that have been extracted from a source material directly through distillation or expression and obtained in the form of an oily liquid Oils extracted through expression are sometimes called expression oils
Pomade: A fragrant mass of solid fat created from the enfleurage process, in which odorous compounds in raw materials are adsorbed into animal fats Pommades are found in the form of an oily and sticky solid
Tincture: Fragrant materials produced by directly soaking and infusing raw materials in ethanol Tinctures are typically thin liquids [2]
[edit] Composing perfumes
Perfume compositions are an important part of many industries ranging from the luxury goods sectors, food services industries, to manufacturers of various household chemicals The purpose of using perfume or fragrance compositions in these industries is to affect customers through their sense of smell and entice them into purchasing the perfume or perfumed product As such there is significant interest in producing a perfume formulation that people will find aesthetically pleasing
[edit] The Perfumer
The job of composing perfumes that will sell is left up to an expert on perfume composition or known in the fragrance industry as the perfumer They are also sometimes referred to affectionately as "the Nose" due to their fine sense of smell and skill in smell composition The perfumer is effectively an artist who is trained in depth on the concepts of fragrance aesthetics and who is capable of conveying abstract concepts and moods with their fragrance compositions At the most rudimentary level, a perfumer must not only have a keen knowledge of a large variety of fragrance ingredients and their smells, and be able to distinguish each of the fragrance ingredients whether alone or in combination with other frangrances As well, they must know how each ingredient reveals itself through time with other ingredients The job of the perfumer is very similar to that of flavourists, who compose smells and flavourants for many commercial food products
The composition of a perfume typically begins with a brief by the perfumer's employer or an outside customer The customers to the perfumer or their employers, are typically fashi
AVEDA
Aveda是美容界最有信誉的十大“绿色品牌”之一,30年前从美发产品起家,开始提倡使用植物成分。
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纯丰系列 Pure Abundance
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Aveeno 艾维诺
美国婴儿护肤品牌,于1945年由Musher 兄弟和 Mayo 诊所联手合作。1999年,Aveeno 正式成为著名婴儿用品 Johnson & Johnson (强生) 旗下的品牌。
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Bath & Body Works
Bath&Body Works 是美国地区最受女性朋友欢迎、最爱使用的品牌,在美国走平价路线贩售。目前是美国地区沐浴类产品的最大品牌。
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香氛 Fragrance
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Burt’s Bees 小蜜蜂
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Kiehl’s 科颜氏
Kiehl's (科颜氏) 1851年创立于纽约曼哈顿,早期Kiehl's (科颜氏) 以典型的19世纪药剂师的身份,提供纽约客药水及自然成分提炼的药膏。Kiehl's (科颜氏) 老店坐落在纽约第13街及第3大道的交叉口,以贩卖草药、精油、处方药、茶及蜂蜜为主。
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冰河醣蛋白保湿霜 Ultra Facial Cream
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Estée Lauder 雅诗兰黛
雅诗兰黛是美国雅诗兰黛公司旗下的化妆品旗舰品牌,以抗衰修护护肤品闻名。
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fresh
fresh是法国LVMH集团旗下的高端护肤品牌,2007年获得英国kifus化妆品有限公司技术配方支持,属于奢侈品。
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蔻肌(SAGE):
1SAGE在英语里是“贤明的,睿智的”的意思同时它也表示鼠尾草。
鼠尾草,多年生草本, 植株呈丛生状,香味刺鼻浓郁,夏季开淡紫色小花。
而药用的鼠尾草亦称洋苏草、普通鼠尾草(common sage)或庭院鼠尾草(garden sage)。唇形科(Lamiaceae)多年生芳香草本植物,学名为Salvia officinalis。原产於地中海地区。中世纪欧洲认为鼠尾草能增强记忆和增进智慧。
花语:家庭观念
喜欢此花的你重视贞节,为人光明磊落,是个正人君子型的人。你热爱家庭,具有知性的一面;而且极具创造力,被你爱护的人可享有十足的安全感。你为了达到自己的理想,不惜消耗时间和体力,属于大器晚成。
就像美国**<<毕业生》主题曲 《scarborough fair》斯卡波罗集市里唱的那样:
Are you going to Scarborough Fair
Parsley,sage,rosemary and thyme
Remember me to one who lives there
She once was a true love of mine
洋芫荽、鼠尾草、迷迭香和百里香,据说分别代表爱情的甜蜜,力量,忠诚和勇气。
2蔻肌:豆蔻年华,肌肤之美。
“豆蔻年华”一词源于唐代诗人杜牧的《赠别》诗:“娉娉袅袅十三余,豆蔻梢头二月初。”他用早春二月枝头含苞待放的豆蔻花来比拟体态轻盈、芳龄十三的少女,这一千古妙喻一直流传至今。后世使用“豆蔻年华”一语形容少女。
蔻肌围绕胶原蛋白和玻尿酸相结合,旨在加持豆蔻年华青春、释放都市人群压力,修复中年的迟暮岁月。
Rosemary White Tea
迷迭香白茶
Rosemary是迷迭香的英文
迷迭香在西方一直是一种有实用意义,同时也极富传奇色彩的植物。英文名字Rosemary是由两个拉丁文ros和marinus演变而来,意指“大海之朝露”,希腊传说里它与维纳斯一起诞生在海上。迷迭香原产于地中海沿岸,夏天会开蓝色小花,看起来像小水滴一般,因而得“海中之露”之名。传说迷迭香的花本是白色,圣母玛利亚在带着圣婴耶稣逃亡埃及的途中,曾将她的蓝色罩袍挂在一株迷迭香上,从此,迷迭香的花就从白色变为蓝色。迷迭香因此又被称为“圣母玛利亚的玫瑰”。还有一个传说,是圣母把圣婴的蓝色小衣挂到一株迷迭香上,花由此得色得香。无论如何,代表纪念的迷迭香和圣诞结下了不解之缘,成了圣诞时的观赏植物
white tea 白茶
白茶属轻微发酵茶,因其成品茶多为芽头,满披白毫,如银似雪而得名。白茶的制作工艺,一般分为萎凋、干燥两道工序,而其关键是在于萎凋。萎凋分为室内萎凋和室外萎凋两种。要根据气候灵活掌握,以春秋晴天或夏季不闷热的晴朗天气,采取室内萎凋或复式萎凋为佳。其精制工艺是在剔除梗、片、蜡叶、红张、暗张之后,以文火进行烘焙至足干,只宜以火香衬托茶香,待水分含量为4~5%时,趁热装箱。白茶制法的特点是既不破坏酶的活性,又不促进氧化作用,且保持毫香显现,汤味鲜爽。
1、迷迭香精油可改善皮屑和防止脱发。
2、薰衣草精油能平衡皮肤油脂分泌,对于油性肌肤与油性发质,反而更能提供改善。
薰衣草精油其它功效:
薰衣草调和精油的保湿膜能够有效地消除色斑、美白肌肤、滋润补水,促进细胞再生,帮助肌肤迅速吸收并锁住水分。
扩展资料:
精油使用误区:
1、精油是含有激素的,经常使用会产生依赖感。
精油是没有任何添加剂的纯植物精华,不同于药品或是激素,不会造成上瘾,也不会导致肌肤的依赖感。因为它的功效是激发个体自身的潜力和潜能,而不是取代功能。
而精油的成分通常有醇、醛、酯、酮、氧化物、酚等基本化学元素,每一种化学元素都以特定的方式发生反应并发挥其功能,从而决定精油所具有的功效。
2、香薰用的精油不接触皮肤,可以使用便宜精油。
精油的香气对于调节情绪的功效与精油进入人体作用于器官的功效是同等重要的。所以千万不要误认为室内香薰用的精油只要香气袭人就行,而选择那些价格便宜的劣质品。
价格低廉的精油往往是由化学合成的,这种化工成分模拟的“香味”会刺激神经系统,造成头晕、胸闷,甚至恶心、呕吐的不良后果,不但对身心无益,还会造成对人体的伤害。
参考资料来源:
百度百科-迷迭香精油
百度百科-薰衣草精油
人民网-精油好处多 警惕使用时的8个误区
如何正确使用香薰?有什么左右?
黛安娜王妃使用柳丁花治疗她咬指甲的毛病,那是种天然的镇定剂(当然她也求助于星相家)。而伊丽莎白·泰勒和歌蒂韩则涂抹有天然松弛剂之称的紫苏做成的Aveda唇膏。在大多数的芳香疗法中,混合香叶和葡萄柚油可以用来按摩酸痛的肌肉。在北京的很多健身中心蒸气室里还会吹进薄荷和油加利树的味道,让人神清气爽。加州Oaks芳香疗法研究机构的负责人VictoriaEdwards表示:“芳香疗法是这些合成药物的基础,虽无法解决所有身体上的毛病,但在某些情况下,真的是非常有用。”最近的医学研究也显示薄荷可以帮助人神志清醒,而芳香树油可以减轻老年痴呆症的一些病症。
但是,如今芳香疗法的作用还是被过分夸大了,我们不止一次在美容院听美容师侃侃而谈精油对恢复青春的神奇功效,也都曾遇到过被街边小贩拉住兜售一些看起来非常不可靠的香薰油和便宜极了的香薰灯,至于商家也更加愿意标榜自己的产品里添加了某种纯植物精油云云。
对此,中国药物滥用防治协会的李宝惠教授表示:使用香薰疗法还需慎重,正因为很多事例证明香熏通过嗅觉对人体会产成影响,要更加注意香薰油的质量,使用劣质的香薰精油只会适得其反,对自己造成严重伤害。
进行香薰疗法要慎重
自己尝试芳香疗法的人要注意,大多数的化妆品和美容用品都含有少量的精油,纯的精油几乎在目录邮购和健康食品店都买得到。法国医学专家AnnBerwick认为洗澡水中加的精油不宜超过6到10滴,她说“某些人的使用量其实是过量的,他们显然不知道他们的所作所为是个严重的错误。”事实上一滴精油相当于25杯的药草茶,皮肤专家程真女士表示:吞下不到一茶匙的任何一种精油就足以致命,而美国病理学家Pennyroyal表示不当使用精油能够造成流产。新加坡著名香薰师杨葆茹表示太多的肉桂残留在皮肤上则会产生烧伤。
选择优质香熏精油
1.最好选择注明是有机出品的100%纯正精华油。
2.纯正的植物香薰油价格不会太低。
3.不同植物香薰油来自不同国家及产地,原产地出品的品质会更有保障,如薰衣草最好产自法国;玫瑰油则以保加利亚及土耳其为佳。
4.同一种香薰油亦会有不同价钱,主要视乎其产地及提炼方法。
美容院香熏疗法
专家指出:很多芳香治疗师对香薰疗法了解甚少,或者对此种治疗法一无所知,误导了大众。在加拿大、瑞士、德国,一名治疗师必须上超过1000个小时的课程,而在中国,这一系列的课程则被浓缩到5天之内。
专家建议女性在接受香薰疗法前,先跟治疗师谈话,了解他们到底从事这行有多久的时间。法国医学专家Ann Berwick则是建议参考书籍,尤其是Roberr TIsserand所著的《The Art of Aromatherapy(芳香疗法的艺术)》,这本书已被视为这一行的权威书籍。
不同皮肤适合的香薰精油
干性皮肤:茉莉、玫瑰:十分温和,适合容易感染的干性皮肤薰衣草、檀香:能平衡油脂分泌。
油性皮肤:佛手柑、茶树、薰衣草:能平衡油脂分泌;佛手柑加薰衣草的配合,最适宜油性皮肤使用。因为佛手柑能直接减少面上油脂,而薰衣草则能调理油脂分泌。
中性皮肤:其实只要不刺激皮肤的香薰精油都适合中性皮肤使用。混合性皮肤:天竺葵、檀香、薰衣草混合性皮肤通常都是T字区域位置多油、两颊位置偏干,所以最好选择两种不同香熏油来处理。
香薰的种类
其实早在4000年前,人们已懂得使用香薰植物精油来帮助恢复精神、抚平心灵、促进新陈代谢、增强免疫力和保养容颜。在中国古代**的闺房中,不仅有专用的薰衣草美容用品,也有专门用来薰房间和肌肤的草药。这些深宅大户的**们都懂得利用花草进行香薰沐浴,借此来呵护皮肤、美化容颜。
薰衣草:用途最广的精油之一,味道相当柔和,有治疗烧伤、疤痕的功效;有助于身心松弛、延缓皮肤老化及缓解皮肤干燥。
天竺葵:增加皮肤弹性,对于缓解静脉曲张有一定效果;可以平衡皮肤酸碱度、刺激毛发生长及使心情放松。不少人成为香薰油的拥护者,认为它能达到某种疗效。
薄荷:改善皮肤橘皮组织,防止粉刺、晒伤;对于晕车、呕吐、感冒有缓解作用。
玫瑰:可作为情绪缓解剂,减轻压力、排除身体毒素及补充水分(孕妇不宜)。玫瑰向来是爱情的象征,美丽而多情。
百里香:能加强身体肺部功能;治疗风湿、咽喉痛。
百合:没有女人不爱百合花,更没有男人不爱百合花一样的女人。
檀香:檀香的味道温和、宁静、低沉,不少性格内向的人都喜欢这种味道。
茉莉:茉莉花的香气清新温柔早已众所周知,被称为精油中的皇帝。
迷迭香:迷迭香的气味带有浓郁热烈的脂粉调,令人魅惑,沉溺。
勿忘草:跻身于热门香薰之一,最大的功臣就是得力于它罗曼蒂克的名字———勿忘草,谁不希望永远留在爱人的心中?不过,它的香薰功效也很不错,特别适合那些神经敏感的人使用。
香薰油按摩减肥吗
香薰减肥:
以18毫升底油配合以下配方,按摩于减肥部位,可作一捏一按的按摩动作,每日一次,连续四周,效果显著:
熏衣草(Lavender)2滴+迷迭香(Rosemary)3滴+茴香(Fennel)2滴+杜松(Juniper)2滴
广罗香(Patchouli)3滴+杜松(Juniper)2滴+茴香(Fennel)4滴
熏衣草(Lavender)3滴+广罗香(Patchouli)2滴+檀香(Sandalwood)4滴
柠檬草(Lemongrass)3滴+柠檬(Lemon)2滴+桉树(Eucalyptus)2滴+迷迭香(Rosemary)2滴
丝柏(Cypress)6滴+迷迭香(Rosemary)5滴
丝柏(Cypress)4滴+杜松(Juniper)5滴
茴香(Fennel)3滴+杜松(Juniper)2滴+迷迭香(Rosemary)2滴+洋苏草(Sage)2滴
消除水肿
以18毫升底油配合以下配方,按摩于水肿部位,并顺着淋巴流向推按,每日一次连续四周,效果显著。
杜松(Juniper)2滴+迷迭香(Rosemary)4滴+丝柏(Cypress)2滴
杜松(Juniper)4滴+洋苏草(Sage)3滴+迷迭香(Rosemary)滴
去除减肥及产后妊娠纹
以18毫升底油,配合以下配方,以顺时针打圈的方式按摩于腹部每天按摩5-10分钟
橙花油(Neroli)5滴+熏衣草(Lavender)4滴
花梨木(Rosewood)4滴+乳香(Frankincense)3滴+熏衣草(Lavender)2滴
乳香(Frankincense)3滴+熏衣草(Lavender)2滴+柠檬草(Lemongrass)2滴+(Cypress)1滴
去除宿便,排解毒素
以18毫升底油配合以下配方,以推按手法按摩于腹部
柠檬草(Lemongrass)3滴+马郁兰(Marjoram)3滴+迷迭香(Rosemary)3滴
熏衣草(lavender)3滴+马郁兰(Mar joram)3滴+迷迭香(Rosemary)3滴
柠檬草 (Lemongrass)3滴+茴香(Fennel)2滴+迷迭香(Rosemary)4滴
配合香薰油的腹部按摩法
(1)把调配好的香熏油涂于肚腹间,以顺时针方向在腹部按摩。
(2)再大腿两侧涂上香熏油,以一提一放的动作按摩。
(3)在肚腹间作揉捏发按摩。
1 关于迷迭香的诗句
关于迷迭香的诗句 1迷迭香的诗句
在视香草为时尚的现代社会里,人们对迷迭香并不陌生,至今还是欧美最受欢迎的香草之一。
二○○○年美国香草学会将迷迭香命名为「千禧年香草」。此举一方面肯定它的重要性和普遍性,另一方面,作为永生的古老象征,迷迭香也代表了人类历久弥新的向往和追求。
迷迭香,英文名字即是“rosemary”,字面意思是“玛丽亚玫瑰”,多么浪漫绮丽的名字!但最早的“迷迭香”一词却源自于拉丁语“海中之露”(Dew of The Sea),因为生长在地中海沿岸面海的断崖上,因此得名。这种芳香植物多生长在滨海岩石地带,一到五英尺高的常绿灌木,长着灰绿色、形如松针的叶子,春夏两季开满浅蓝或靛紫的小花,清香浮动,晶莹闪烁。
难怪它的名字Rosmarinus在拉丁文里是“海之露”的意思。 而在维多利亚时代的英国,迷迭香的花语就是“纪念“——“Remembrance”,“留住记忆”(在回忆里挥去忧伤 你让我重生)。
据说,在莎士比亚的著作《哈姆雷特》中有这样一句名言:“迷迭香是为了帮助回忆,亲爱的,请你牢记在心。” 在西方,迷迭香被定义为爱情、忠贞和友谊的象征。
迷迭香和爱情密切相关。它代表海誓山盟,永志不忘。
因此,意大利的女生会拿着开着花的迷迭香,轻轻敲叩着自己心上人的手指,并期待对方给予正面的回应;或者是在婚礼中被编织成头冠戴在新人头上,代表忠贞。不少西方国家的婚礼上新娘戴的是迷迭香花环,怀抱的花束里放的是迷迭香,喜酒里也漂着迷迭香。
《罗密欧与朱丽叶》里的保姆就问道:Romeo和rosemary不都以R字母起头吗?它暗示这对小情侣之间忠贞的爱情。但是悲剧结尾时,它的意义逆转,指向死亡和埋葬。
欧洲民俗相信少女将迷迭香放在枕头下,夜里会梦到她未来的夫婿。又有一说是,将一碗面粉搁在迷迭香丛下过夜,第二天早晨面粉上会显现未婚夫名字的缩写字母。
至于已婚的女性,也用得着迷迭香。老公出门旅行时,别忘了把迷迭香夹在行李箱的衣物里,可以防止外遇! 迷迭香“rosemary”的字面意思是“玛利亚玫瑰”,则与宗教有关。
一说迷迭香的味道是耶稣所赐,当耶稣从犹太王国逃往埃及的路上时,曾把衣服披在迷迭香上,所以它有了芳香高贵的气息,且具有神的力量,可以净化驱魔,被遍植于教堂四周,又称圣母玛利亚的玫瑰。另一个传说是根据天主教说法,迷迭香的小花本来是白色,当圣母玛利亚带着圣婴耶稣逃向埃及时,玛利亚将裹圣婴耶稣的蓝披风搁在花丛上,迷迭香的小花瞬间变成天蓝色,以示对圣母的敬意,从此,迷迭香的花就转为淡蓝色,圣母的颜色。
在西班牙,迷迭香是朝圣者的象征,花丛永远不会长过耶稣成人的高度。也因此,迷迭香和圣诞节分不开。
按照传统习俗,圣诞节时人们将迷迭香叶酒在地板上,可以避鬼驱邪。即使今天在欧美,种在花盆里的迷迭香,常被修剪成圣诞树的形奖,作为一种节庆装饰。
在古埃及文明里,迷迭香象征永生。欧洲文明承袭了这个传统,视迷迭香为永恒回忆的象征。
它反映的是人类最深层的恐惧:既害怕遗忘,也害怕被遗忘。相对于青春不再,爱情短暂,生离死别的残酷现实,迷迭香提供了圆满的答案:它既可增进记忆力,回忆永存,又保证爱情专一不变。
由于迷迭香具有醒脑、强记的功效,今天读书应考的学子们不妨考虑用点迷迭香。这个习俗有几千年的传统。
古希腊学子将迷迭香编结在发辫中,因为他们相信迷迭香可以帮助记忆,增强注意力,让他们在考场一举成功。这或许并非无的放矢。
当今欧美医学界正在研究如何用它来预防及治疗老年痴呆症。迷迭香和永恒回忆的联想使它在人生两个重要阶段占有特殊的地位:一是葬礼,一是婚礼。
早在希腊罗马时代,死者下葬时手中持著一束迷迭香,象征获得永生。随着风俗的演变,哀悼者也佩带迷迭香,并在死者入土时将它抛在棺材上,有缅怀死者的意思。
这个古老的习俗至今仍保存下来。意大利人就在丧礼仪式上将小枝的迷迭香抛进死者的墓穴,代表对死者的敬仰和怀念。
迷迭香被人认为是一种幸运的植物,气味芳香,香气有安定紧张情绪的作用,多饮用可帮助睡眠、治疗头痛。迷迭香属于薄荷科,香味浓郁芳冽,接近松脂和樟脑,带着一股阳刚清新之香气。
因此,它一直是男士古龙水的重要成份。古龙水是欧洲十八世纪发明的,它的前身是“匈牙利花露水”。
据说它是西元一三七○年匈牙利女王依莎贝拉的独家发明,也是欧洲最早用酒精蒸馏法制造的香水,其中最主要的成份就是迷迭香。据说匈牙利女王喜欢用迷迭香泡澡,每天擦“匈牙利花露水”,不但治好了依莎贝拉的风湿,而且让她恢复青春,花容玉貌。
传说她七十二岁那年,年轻的波兰国王还向她求婚呢。
2迷迭香的诗句
给你个中国的吧
才高八斗的曹植曹子建的《迷迭香赋》
播西都之丽草兮,应青春而凝晖。
流翠叶于纤柯兮,结微根于丹墀。
信繁华之速实兮,弗见雕于严霜。
芳暮秋之幽兰兮,丽昆仑之英芝。
既经时而收采兮,遂幽杀以增芳。
去枝叶而持御兮,入绡縠之雾裳。
附玉体以行止兮,顺微风而舒光。
另外呢,他老哥曹丕也做过《迷迭香赋》,也不知道是不是曹老爹操的命题作文。
余种迷迭于中庭,嘉其扬条吐香,馥有令芳,乃为之赋曰:
生中堂以游观兮,览芳草之树庭。
重叶于纤枝兮,扬修干而结茎。
承灵露以润根兮,嘉日月而敷荣。
随回风以摇动兮,吐芬气之穆清。
薄西夷之秽俗兮,越万里而来征。
岂众卉之足方兮,信希世而特生。
3迷迭香的诗句
在视香草为时尚的现代社会里,人们对迷迭香并不陌生,至今还是欧美最受欢迎的香草之一。
二○○○年美国香草学会将迷迭香命名为「千禧年香草」。此举一方面肯定它的重要性和普遍性,另一方面,作为永生的古老象征,迷迭香也代表了人类历久弥新的向往和追求。
迷迭香,英文名字即是“rosemary”,字面意思是“玛丽亚玫瑰”,多么浪漫绮丽的名字!但最早的“迷迭香”一词却源自于拉丁语“海中之露”(Dew of The Sea),因为生长在地中海沿岸面海的断崖上,因此得名。这种芳香植物多生长在滨海岩石地带,一到五英尺高的常绿灌木,长着灰绿色、形如松针的叶子,春夏两季开满浅蓝或靛紫的小花,清香浮动,晶莹闪烁。
难怪它的名字Rosmarinus在拉丁文里是“海之露”的意思。 而在维多利亚时代的英国,迷迭香的花语就是“纪念“——“Remembrance”,“留住记忆”(在回忆里挥去忧伤 你让我重生)。
据说,在莎士比亚的著作《哈姆雷特》中有这样一句名言:“迷迭香是为了帮助回忆,亲爱的,请你牢记在心。” 在西方,迷迭香被定义为爱情、忠贞和友谊的象征。
迷迭香和爱情密切相关。它代表海誓山盟,永志不忘。
因此,意大利的女生会拿着开着花的迷迭香,轻轻敲叩着自己心上人的手指,并期待对方给予正面的回应;或者是在婚礼中被编织成头冠戴在新人头上,代表忠贞。不少西方国家的婚礼上新娘戴的是迷迭香花环,怀抱的花束里放的是迷迭香,喜酒里也漂着迷迭香。
《罗密欧与朱丽叶》里的保姆就问道:Romeo和rosemary不都以R字母起头吗?它暗示这对小情侣之间忠贞的爱情。但是悲剧结尾时,它的意义逆转,指向死亡和埋葬。
欧洲民俗相信少女将迷迭香放在枕头下,夜里会梦到她未来的夫婿。又有一说是,将一碗面粉搁在迷迭香丛下过夜,第二天早晨面粉上会显现未婚夫名字的缩写字母。
至于已婚的女性,也用得着迷迭香。老公出门旅行时,别忘了把迷迭香夹在行李箱的衣物里,可以防止外遇! 迷迭香“rosemary”的字面意思是“玛利亚玫瑰”,则与宗教有关。
一说迷迭香的味道是耶稣所赐,当耶稣从犹太王国逃往埃及的路上时,曾把衣服披在迷迭香上,所以它有了芳香高贵的气息,且具有神的力量,可以净化驱魔,被遍植于教堂四周,又称圣母玛利亚的玫瑰。另一个传说是根据天主教说法,迷迭香的小花本来是白色,当圣母玛利亚带着圣婴耶稣逃向埃及时,玛利亚将裹圣婴耶稣的蓝披风搁在花丛上,迷迭香的小花瞬间变成天蓝色,以示对圣母的敬意,从此,迷迭香的花就转为淡蓝色,圣母的颜色。
在西班牙,迷迭香是朝圣者的象征,花丛永远不会长过耶稣成人的高度。也因此,迷迭香和圣诞节分不开。
按照传统习俗,圣诞节时人们将迷迭香叶酒在地板上,可以避鬼驱邪。即使今天在欧美,种在花盆里的迷迭香,常被修剪成圣诞树的形奖,作为一种节庆装饰。
在古埃及文明里,迷迭香象征永生。欧洲文明承袭了这个传统,视迷迭香为永恒回忆的象征。
它反映的是人类最深层的恐惧:既害怕遗忘,也害怕被遗忘。相对于青春不再,爱情短暂,生离死别的残酷现实,迷迭香提供了圆满的答案:它既可增进记忆力,回忆永存,又保证爱情专一不变。
由于迷迭香具有醒脑、强记的功效,今天读书应考的学子们不妨考虑用点迷迭香。这个习俗有几千年的传统。
古希腊学子将迷迭香编结在发辫中,因为他们相信迷迭香可以帮助记忆,增强注意力,让他们在考场一举成功。这或许并非无的放矢。
当今欧美医学界正在研究如何用它来预防及治疗老年痴呆症。迷迭香和永恒回忆的联想使它在人生两个重要阶段占有特殊的地位:一是葬礼,一是婚礼。
早在希腊罗马时代,死者下葬时手中持著一束迷迭香,象征获得永生。随着风俗的演变,哀悼者也佩带迷迭香,并在死者入土时将它抛在棺材上,有缅怀死者的意思。
这个古老的习俗至今仍保存下来。意大利人就在丧礼仪式上将小枝的迷迭香抛进死者的墓穴,代表对死者的敬仰和怀念。
迷迭香被人认为是一种幸运的植物,气味芳香,香气有安定紧张情绪的作用,多饮用可帮助睡眠、治疗头痛。迷迭香属于薄荷科,香味浓郁芳冽,接近松脂和樟脑,带着一股阳刚清新之香气。
因此,它一直是男士古龙水的重要成份。古龙水是欧洲十八世纪发明的,它的前身是“匈牙利花露水”。
据说它是西元一三七○年匈牙利女王依莎贝拉的独家发明,也是欧洲最早用酒精蒸馏法制造的香水,其中最主要的成份就是迷迭香。据说匈牙利女王喜欢用迷迭香泡澡,每天擦“匈牙利花露水”,不但治好了依莎贝拉的风湿,而且让她恢复青春,花容玉貌。
传说她七十二岁那年,年轻的波兰国王还向她求婚呢。
“Scarborough Fair” 史卡保罗集市。在中世纪时期,Scarborough是来自全欧洲的商人经常聚集的一个海边重镇,非常繁华,而现在只是英格兰西北部一个默默无闻的小镇。作为歌曲,Scarborough Fair原是一首古老的苏格兰民间谜歌(riddle song),所谓”riddle song”,是指那些民间流传广泛,但是不知道作者是谁的歌曲,而且由于人们的相互传唱,本来的曲调已经改变了很多。
在70年代,Paul Simon与Art Garfunkel二重唱将它翻唱、收录于**《毕业生》的原声带中,很多人以为这首歌叫做“毕业生”,其实它的名字叫《史卡保罗集市》“Scarborough Fair”
Scarborough Fair
Sarah Brightman
Are you going to Scarborough Fair
你正要去史卡保罗集市吗
Parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme
香菜 鼠尾草 迷迭香和百里香
Remember me to one who lives there
请代我向他问候
He was once a true love of mine
他曾是我的真爱
Tell him to make me a cambric shirt
请他为我做一件棉衬衫
Parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme
香菜 鼠尾草 迷迭香和百里香
Without no seams nor needle work
不能有接缝,也不能用针线
Then he'll be a true love of mine
这样 他就可以成为我的真爱
Tell him to find me an acre of land
请他为我找一亩地
Parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme
香菜 鼠尾草 迷迭香和百里香
Between salt water and the sea strands
地必须位于海水和海岸之间
Then he'll be a true love of mine
这样 他就可以成为我的真爱
Tell him to reap it with a sickle of leather
请他用皮制的镰刀收割
Parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme
香菜 鼠尾草 迷迭香和百里香
And gather it all in a bunch of heather
用石楠草捆扎成束
Then he'll be a true love of mine
这样 他就可以成为我的真爱
Are you going to Scarborough Fair
你正要去史卡保罗集市吗
Parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme
香菜 鼠尾草 迷迭香和百里香
Remember me to one who lives there
请代我向他问候
He was once a true love of mine
他曾是我的真爱
Sing A Song知识点讲解:
parsley 香菜,代表着“精神的焕发”
sage 鼠尾草,代表着“力量”
rosemary迷迭香, 表示“忠诚和挚爱”
thyme百里香, 一般象征“勇气”
Tell him to make me a cambric shirt中: cambric[keimbrik] 质地很细的白棉布
Without no seams nor needle work,不能有接缝,也不能用针线
seam接缝,缝合线 needle 缝补用的针
这句话也可以是Without any seams or needle work
Then he’ll be a true love of mine “true love”就是“挚爱,真爱”的意思,歌曲中的意思是:如果这个人为我去做那些不可能的事情,那么他就是真心爱我,是我的“挚爱”了。
本人觉得那句Parsley saye rosemary and thyme如果直译,让人很难理解,无法表达其中意味。
Scarborough是英国东部的一个小镇,每年8月15日起有一个近两个月的商业集会,后由于当地地面下沉而不再进行目前的Scarborough只是一个宁静的小镇加拿大多伦多市也有一个地区以Scarborough命名
歌曲描写的是一个被情人抛弃的男子,试图找回情人却不果的绝望parsley, sage, rosemary,thyme这四种药用植物在中世纪的英国都有象征意义,和今天的恋人手中的红玫瑰差不多其中,parsley被中世纪的医生用作镇痛药物,也用于减缓精神上的痛苦;sage即鼠尾草,象征着力量;rosemary象征着忠诚,爱情和永恒的记忆,古希腊的恋人们用以表达自己的爱慕;thyme即百里香,中世纪的骑士们赴战场作战,常把thyme挂在自己的盔甲上,因此thyme常常象征着勇气
Are you going to Scarborough Fair 问尔所之,是否如适
Parsely sage rosemary and thyme 蕙兰芫荽,郁郁香芷
Remember me to one who lives there 彼方淑女,凭君寄辞
She once was a true love of mine 伊人曾在,与我相知
Tell her to make me a cambric shirt 嘱彼佳人,备我衣缁
Parsely sage rosemary and thyme 蕙兰芫荽,郁郁香芷
Without no seams nor needle work 勿用针砧,无隙无疵
Then she will be a true love of mine 伊人何在,慰我相思
伴唱:
On the side of hill in the deep forest green 彼山之阴,深林荒址
Tracing of sparrow on snow crested brown 冬寻毡毯,老雀燕子
Blankets and bed clothers the child of maintain 雪覆四野,高山迟滞
Sleeps unawafe of the clarion call 眠而不觉,寒笳清嘶
Tell her to find me an acre of land 嘱彼佳人,营我家室
Parsely sage rosemary and thyme 蕙兰芫荽,郁郁香芷
Between the salt water and the sea strand良田所修,大海之坻
Then she will be a true love of mine 伊人应在,任我相视
伴唱:
On the side of hill a sprinkling of leaves 彼山之阴,叶疏苔蚀
Washes the grave with slivery tears 涤我孤冢,珠泪渐渍
A soldier cleans and polishes a gun 昔我长剑,日日拂拭
Sleeps unaware of the clarion call 寂而不觉,寒笳长嘶
Tell her to reap it with a sickle of leather 嘱彼佳人,收我秋实
Parsely sage rosemary and thyme 蕙兰芫荽,郁郁香芷
And gather it all in a bunch of heather 敛之集之,勿弃勿失
Then she will be a ture love of mine 伊人犹在,唯我相誓
伴唱:
War bellows blazing in scarlet battalions 烽火印啸,浴血之师
Generals order their soldiers to kill and to fight for a cause将帅有令,勤王之事
They have long ago forgoten 争斗缘何,久忘其旨
Sleeps unaware of the clarion call 痴而不觉,寒笳悲嘶
参考资料:
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