薰衣草简介及详细资料

形态特征

​薰衣草是半灌木或矮灌木，分枝，被星状绒毛，在幼嫩部分较密；老枝灰褐色或暗褐色，皮层作条状剥落，具有长的花枝及短的更新枝。叶线形或披针状线形，在花枝上的叶较大，疏离，长3-5厘米，宽03-05厘米，被密的或疏的灰色星状绒毛，干时灰白色或橄绿色，在更新枝上的叶小，簇生，长不超过17厘米，宽约02厘米，密被灰白色星状绒毛，干时灰白色，均先端钝，基部渐狭成极短柄，全缘，边缘外卷，中脉在下面隆起，侧脉及网脉不明显。

薰衣草

轮伞花序通常具6-10花，多数，在枝顶聚集成间断或近连续的穗状花序，穗状花序长约3（5）厘米，花序梗长约为花序本身3倍，密被星状绒毛；苞片菱状卵圆形，先端渐尖成钻状，具5-7脉，干时常带锈色，被星状绒毛，小苞片不明显；花具短梗，蓝色，密被灰色、分枝或不分枝绒毛。花萼卵状管形或近管形，长4-5毫米，13脉，内面近无毛，二唇形，上唇1齿较宽而长，下唇具4短齿，齿相等而明显。花冠长约为花萼的2倍，具13条脉纹，外面被与花萼同一毛被，但基部近无毛，内面在喉部及冠檐部分被腺状毛，中部具毛环，冠檐二唇形，上唇直伸，2裂，裂片较大，圆形，且彼此稍重叠，下唇开展，3裂，裂片较小。雄蕊4，着生在毛环上方，不外伸，前对较长，花丝扁平，无毛，花药被毛。花柱被毛，在先端压扁，卵圆形。花盘4浅裂，裂片与子房裂片对生。

小坚果4，椭圆形，光滑，有光泽，具有一基部着生面。花期6月。全株略带木头甜味的清淡香气，因花、叶和茎上的绒毛均藏有油腺，轻轻碰触油腺即破裂而释出香味。

地理分布

国外分布

薰衣草原野生于法国和义大利南部地中海沿海的阿尔卑斯山南麓一带，以及西班牙、北非等地。13世纪，它是欧洲医学修道院园圃中的主要栽种植物，15世纪，海尔幅夏地区开始种植；16世纪末，在法国南部地区开始栽培；18世纪，萨里的密契、伦敦南区的熏衣山、法国的普罗旺斯、格拉斯附近的山区都以种植薰衣草而闻名，并成为世界闻名的旅游胜地；19世纪，英、澳、美、匈、保、俄、日等国相继引种栽培，现已遍及地中海与黑海沿岸诸国。

薰衣草

国内分布

经过新疆伊梨人数10年的精心培育，薰衣草在天山脚下伊犁河畔形成规模。薰衣草是一种名贵而重要的天然香料植物，其香气清香肃爽、浓郁宜人。天山山脉腹地的新疆伊犁哈萨克自治州，是中国薰衣草种植加工的主要基地，是亚洲地区最大的香料生产基地。

生长习性

温度

薰衣草具有很强的适应性。成年植株既耐低温，又耐高温，在收获季节能耐高温40℃左右。陕西黄龙地区，薰衣草植株安全露地越冬在-21℃；新疆地区，经埋土处理、积雪覆盖可耐-37℃低温。幼苗可耐受-10℃的低温。薰衣草在翌年生长发育过程中，平均气温在8℃左右，开始萌动需10~15d；平均气温在12~15℃，植株枝条开始返青伸长需20d；平均气温在16~18℃，开始现蕾需25~30d；平均气温在20~22℃，开始开花；平均气温在26~32℃，是结实期。

薰衣草

水分

薰衣草是一种性喜干燥、需水不多的植物，年降雨量在600~800mm比较适合。返青期和现蕾期，植株生长较快，需水量多；开花期需水量少；结实期水量要适宜；冬季休眠期要进行冬灌或有积雪覆盖。所以，一年中理想的雨量分布是春季要充沛、夏季适量、冬季有充足的雪。

日照

薰衣草属长日照植物，生长发育期要求日照充足，全年要求日照时数在2000h以上。植株若在阴湿环境中，则会发育不良、衰老较快。

土壤

薰衣草根系发达，性喜土层深厚、疏松、透气良好而富含矽钙质的肥沃土壤。酸性或碱性强的土壤及黏性重、排水不良或地下水位高的地块，都不宜种植。

繁殖方式

有性繁殖

每年的5月至10月是薰衣草开放的时分播种育苗，繁殖快、根系发达、幼苗健壮，但变异性大，是选种的良好材料。种子应选大小均匀、籽粒饱满、有棕褐色光泽的。播种前要进行晒种，30℃温水浸种12~24h，浓硫酸浸种5min，用水清洗晾干后进行播种。在4月可用种子播种繁殖，种子发芽的最低温度为8～12℃，最适温度为20～25℃，5月进行定植，但薰衣草种子繁殖变异较大且种子价格较高。

薰衣草

无性繁殖

薰衣草主要以扦插繁殖为主，它可以保持母本的优良品质。扦插适应性较强，春季、秋季都可进行。一般选用无病虫害健康的植株顶芽（约5～10厘米）或较嫩、没有木质化的枝条扦插，扦插时将底部2节的叶片摘除，然后用“根太阳”生根剂100倍液浸一浸，处理过后扦入土中约2～3星期就会生根。扦插的介质可用河沙与椭糠按2∶1的比例混合均匀，装进5×10的穴盘里进行扦插。扦后将苗放在通风凉爽的环境里，前3天保持土壤湿润，以后视天气而定，保证枝条不皱叶、干枯，提高成活率。扦插苗的管理比较方便，整个苗期都不用施肥，生产上采用较多。

栽培技术

修剪整枝

新定植的薰衣草前期生长较缓慢。随着春季气温的回升，薰衣草在4月中旬进入返青期，为促进薰衣草增加分枝和根系发育，要在4月底至5月上旬进行人工修剪，即将距地面15cm以上的顶端枝条进行修剪平茬，对植株中部重剪，四周轻剪。

现蕾开花期管理

在本地5月下旬薰衣草第1茬花进入现蕾期，6月下旬进入盛花期。在定植的第1年，为促进薰衣草幼苗的枝条生长，减少营养消耗，在6月上旬可打掉第1茬花蕾。第2茬花在8月中旬进入现蕾期，9月中旬为盛花期。在秋季气候条件较好的情况下，第3茬花10月中旬为盛花期。

灌水和中耕除草

对新定植的薰衣草，前3年要保证充足的灌水，以促进植株发棵。每年4月中下旬薰衣草返青期及时浇好返青水，根据天气情况和土壤墒情全年浇水6~8次，注意重点浇好现蕾水和花期水，要浇匀、浇透，确保浇水质量。结合每次灌水及时中耕，达到保墒、增温和锄草的目的，一般全年中耕除草5~7次。11月上中旬灌越冬水。

追肥

薰衣草虽然具有较强的耐瘠薄和耐旱能力，在定植后为促进薰衣草的快速发棵和提高产量，需要供给相对较多的水肥。对新定植的薰衣草，在定植后3年内要早施肥、勤施肥。结合灌水第1次施肥把第1茬花现蕾期，结合浇水亩施尿素15kg、磷酸二铵10kg；第2次追肥亩施尿素10kg，在植株旁人工穴施。

越冬前管理

冬季漫长且气温较低，田间试验证明，要保证薰衣草在本地区安全越冬，越冬前必须进行人工埋土。即11月

上旬灌越冬水后，先将薰衣草距地面15~20cm以上的枝条进行平茬修剪，然后用土培围，埋土厚15cm左右，以保证基部发棵部位不遭受冻害。注意埋土既不能过厚也不能过薄。翌年春季在浇返青水前，及时扒土放苗，即把覆盖在植株上的覆土扒去，以防枝叶在土壤中霉烂。

收割

适宜的收割期为盛花期，即花穗的小花70%开放时，收割过早或过晚，都会影响产量。头茬花一般在6月下旬至7月中旬，二茬花在9月下旬至10月上旬。收获前要预测产量。收割时不能夹带杂草和过多的茎叶，以免影响油的质量。收割后应选择晴天10：00以后，如早晨露水大或阴天则不宜收割。光越强，天越热，出油率越高。运输及晾花时不宜堆积过厚，防止发热、自蒸，必须当天收割当天加工完。

病虫防治

叶斑病 ：一年生的播种苗或扦插苗受害时首先出现植物萎蔫、失水、叶色暗淡，叶片枝条顶部向下弯曲下垂，在现蕾期表现最明显。轻者夜间可以复原，重者两三天就死亡，根部腐烂，茎部导管变褐呈现光泽。三年生以上的苗子除与苗期病态表现一样外，萎蔫症状出现在植株的中心或边缘，逐渐向内向外发展，枝条萎蔫枯死，最后全株死亡。一般从5月份开始，七八月份达到高峰。喷波尔多液1∶200预防2~3次，或代森锌500~800倍液。根腐病、镰刀菌凋萎病：用50%多菌灵500倍液，或50%甲基托布津400倍液灌根或叶面喷施。

虫害防治： 红蜘蛛：用18%阿维菌素稀释600~1000倍液，或三氯杀螨醇等叶面喷雾。叶蝉、跳甲：用50%辛硫磷乳油、50%杀螟松乳油、12%灭虫冠乳油等菊酯类药剂防治。

主要价值 药用

药理活性

根据报导国外几个世纪以来主要以干品或精油形式套用于临床和化妆品行业。全草含挥发油1%~3%，薰衣草用于治疗疾病可以追溯到古罗马和古希腊时代。薰衣草精油仍像过去几个世纪那样普遍套用。薰衣草精油是许多不同类型的芳香族化合物组成的复杂混合物，30多种成分，主要成分芳樟醇、乙酸芳樟酯、桉树脑、B-罗勤烯（包括顺式和反式）对、乙酸薰衣草酯、薰衣草醇、萜-4-醇和樟脑等等122182。

薰衣草

镇静催眠作用

薰衣草精油主要套用于芳香疗法或 方面。在国外，1993年，爱尔兰的Tullamore在Genoral医院把从罗勤、刺柏、薰衣草和甜牛至属植物中提取来的挥发油混合使用于改善老年人的睡眠。1995年，Graham也对此作了尝试，目的是为减少病人的睡眠干扰，使其快速入睡。在与挥发油雾化治疗联用2个星期后，自述晚上睡眠良好的病人数显著增加，晚上睡眠时需要周围环境特别安静的病人数显著减少。在新疆，很多维吾尔医院用薰衣草全草制剂来治疗神经衰弱和失眠。

解痉作用

除了对中枢神经系统的作用外，动物实验标明，薰衣草精油还对回肠和子宫平滑肌具有解痉作用。它的解痉作用既不是通过肾上腺素能和胆碱能受体起作用，也不是作用于钙离子通道，而是通过提高细胞内环磷腺苷水平而起作用。薰衣草精油在产科也有些套用，比如加入洗澡水中，能减轻产妇分娩后的疼痛和不适。

抗菌作用

Lis-Balchin发现薰衣草精油具有抵抗多种细菌的活性，

芳樟醇是薰衣草精油抗菌的主要成分，它能抑制17种细菌（包括革兰阳性菌和革兰阴性菌）、10种真菌的生长。已经证实薰衣草精油和精油蒸气均有一定的抗真菌活性。1%和10%的薰衣草提取物能抑制灰葡萄孢的分生孢子萌发和芽孢生长，且对芽孢生长的抑制作用比对菌丝更有效。薰衣草精油蒸气还能抑制烟曲霉Aspergillusfumigatus菌死体生长，所需要剂量与茶树油相当，但高于柠檬香草油、桂皮油和百里香油。薰衣草精油对须发癣菌Trichophytonmentagrophytes和深红色发癣菌Trubrum有效的浓度为10~20Lg/ml，浓度在150Lg/ml时可杀死60种分生芽孢子。

神经保护作用

狭叶薰衣草花水提取物剂量依赖地抑制谷氨酸诱导的神经毒性。100Lg/ml和1mg/ml的提取物明显阻断谷氨酸诱导的体外培养的大鼠小脑颗粒细胞的神经毒性，最有效剂量为1mg/ml。

降脂作用

有学者将人脂肪组织切成小片在005%的胶原酶溶液中培育，并将提取物加至培养管中。脂肪降解率：加薰衣草提取物管为（112+010）毫克脂肪/培育管，加薰衣草和茴香提取物为（237+018）毫克脂肪/管，未加提取物的对照管（035+009）毫克脂肪/管。

治疗心血管功能不全

有人用含薰衣草的几种草药浸液用于治疗心血管不全，该药液减少头痛、头晕，降低血胆固醇指数和动脉压过低的症状。

治疗神经症

李树升等用薰衣草花闻香治疗神经症病员50例，8周为1疗程，发现神经症的睡眠障碍，情绪障碍，躯体化症状SCL-90（症状自评量表），STAI（状态与性格焦虑自检量表），EEG（脑电图），REG（脑血流图）都有改善，未见不良反应。

食用

薰衣草茶是以干燥的花蕾冲泡而成，取一大匙放进壶中，再倒入沸水，只需焖5分钟即可享用，不加蜂蜜和砂糖也甘香可口。这道茶不带副作用，并具有镇静、松弛消化道痉挛、清凉爽快、消除肠胃胀气、助消化、预防恶心晕眩、缓和焦虑及神经性偏头痛、预防感冒等众多益处，沙哑失声时饮用也有助于恢复，所以有“上班族最佳伙伴”的美名。

饮食宜忌：一般人都可食用，每次2～3克。低血压患者请适量使用，以免反应迟钝想睡觉。薰衣草粉也是通经药，妇女怀孕初期应避免使用。

美容

因为薰衣草具有抑制细菌，平衡油脂分泌，抚慰肌肤的功效，还可以用于洁面产品，将薰衣草提取液添加进皂，洁面乳产品中，经过冷杀菌保鲜处理和issofree先进技术的套用，就制成了薰衣草皂和洁面乳等高端洁面产品。

面膜：取薰衣草粉10g，用水，或蛋清，或牛奶，调和成糊状。均匀涂于面部，20分钟洗掉，即可。

蒸脸：在做面膜之前，都要蒸脸的，以便打开毛孔，更好吸收面膜。这时候，可以将10g左右的薰衣草粉撒在蒸脸的器皿中。花香扑鼻，心旷神怡，镇静安神，舒缓神经，滋润皮肤。

泡浴：约5g薰衣草粉撒到浴缸中。能够收缩全身皮肤，供给营养，香身美体，舒缓压力。

园林

薰衣草植物种类繁多，具有很高的生态观赏价值。其植株低矮，全株四季都呈灰紫色，生长力强，耐修剪，叶形花色优美，高贵典雅。可用于建薰衣草专类芳香植物园，做到绿化、美化、彩化、香化一体。既能观赏，又能净化空气、治疗疾病，起到医疗保健的作用。

植物文化 名称来源

古希腊时代，薰衣草被称为纳德斯（Nardus），这个名称来自于叙利亚一个叫做纳达（Naarda）的城市。薰

薰衣草

衣草的花一磅可以卖到一百迪纳里（denarii），这个价钱约等于当时一个农场工人的一个月的工资，或是理发师帮五十个人理发所得的报酬。罗马人会将薰衣草和各种香草一起放到洗澡水内，他们将这种沐浴的方法引进到不列颠。

薰衣草种植和销售于全世界。薰衣草（Lavender）在18世纪时，一直被的称为“espic”，而在普罗旺斯，薰衣草则被暱称为“epi ”。 Lavender一字源于拉丁文的”Lavare”，有洗净的意思。古代民间传说薰衣草一直作为治疗皮肤病的美妙补救方法。

花语

在欧洲传统中，薰衣草似乎与爱情天然相关，大量的爱情传说或民间习俗都涉及到薰衣草，《薰衣草代表真爱》是伊莉莎白时代最具代表性的抒情诗。薰衣草的花语是“等待爱情”，就像电视剧《薰衣草》所演绎的那样，薰衣草意味着一种含蓄的示爱，一种坚定的承诺，历经磨难而终能携子之手。

传说

薰衣草是一种馥郁的紫蓝色的小花。它就像它的所在地一样具有浪漫的情怀。这种生于法国普罗旺斯的花，

有一个美丽的爱情传说。

在法国的普罗旺斯，也就是薰衣草的故乡之一，流传着这么一个有关薰衣草的爱情故事……

话说普罗旺斯的村里有个少女，一个人独自在寒冷的山中采著含苞待放的花朵，但是却遇到了一位来自远方但受伤的旅人，少女一看到这位青年，整颗心便被他那风度翩翩的笑容给俘虏了！

于是少女便将他请到家中，也不管家人的反对，坚持要照顾他直到痊愈，而过了几天后，青年旅人的伤也已经康复，但两人的恋情却急速蔓延，已经到了难分难舍的地步。

不久后的某日，青年旅人向少女告别离去，而正处于热恋中的少女却坚持要随青年离去，虽然亲人们极力挽留，但她还是坚持要和青年一起到开满玫瑰花的故乡！

就在少女临走的前一刻，村子里的老太太给了她一束薰衣草，要她用这束薰衣草来试探青年旅人的真心，因为：传说薰衣草的香气能让不洁之物现形。

正当旅人牵起她的手准备远行时，少女便将藏在大衣里的薰衣草丢掷在青年的身上，没想到，青年的身上发出一阵紫色的轻烟之后，就随着风烟消云散了！而少女在山谷中还仿佛隐隐的听到青年爽朗的笑声，就这样，留下了少女一人孤形影单。

没过多久，少女竟也不见踪影，有人认为她和青年一样幻化成轻烟消失在山谷中，也有人说，她循着薰衣草花香去寻找青年了……无论如何，薰衣草的传奇故事就这么被流传了下来。所以，直到现在，薰衣草还是被人们认为是驱除不洁之物及薰香的重要工具之一。

1、抗菌

抗菌作用

薰衣草精油具有抵抗多种细菌的活性，芳樟醇是薰衣草精油抗菌的主要成分，它能抑制17种细菌（包括革兰阳性菌和革兰阴性菌）、10种真菌的生长。已经证实薰衣草精油和精油蒸气均有一定的抗真菌活性。1%和10%的薰衣草提取物能抑制灰葡萄孢的分生孢子萌发和芽孢生长，且对芽孢生长的抑制作用比对菌丝更有效。

2、美容

因为薰衣草具有抑制细菌，平衡油脂分泌，抚慰肌肤的功效，还可以用于洁面产品，将薰衣草提取液添加进皂，洁面乳产品中，经过冷杀菌保鲜处理和issofree先进技术的应用，就制成了薰衣草皂和洁面乳等高端洁面产品。

3、园林

薰衣草植物种类繁多，具有很高的生态观赏价值。其植株低矮，全株四季都呈灰紫色，生长力强，耐修剪，叶形花色优美，高贵典雅。可用于建薰衣草专类芳香植物园，做到绿化、美化、彩化、香化一体。能观赏，又能净化空气。

扩展资料：

分布及其形态：

原产于地中海沿岸、欧洲各地及大洋洲列岛，如法国南部的小镇普罗旺斯，后被广泛栽种于英国及南斯拉夫，现美国的田纳西州，日本的北海道也有大量种植。新疆的天山北麓与法国的普罗旺斯地处同一纬度带，且气候条件和土壤条件相似，是薰衣草种植基地，是中国的薰衣草之乡，新疆的薰衣草已入世界八大知名品种之一。

性喜干燥、花形如小麦穗状，有着细长的茎干，花上覆盖着星形细毛，末梢上开着小小的紫蓝色花朵，窄长的叶片呈灰绿色，成株时高可达90cm，通常在六月开花。每当花开风吹起时，一整片的薰衣草田宛如深紫色的波浪层层叠叠地上下起伏着，甚是美丽。

参考资料来源：百度百科-薰衣草 （唇形目唇形科植物）

参考资料来源：百度百科-lavender （薰衣草）

Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils and aroma compounds, fixatives, and solvents used to give the human body, objects, and living spaces a pleasant smell The amount and type of solvent mix with the fragrance oil dictates whether a perfume is considered a perfume extract, Eau de parfum, Eau de toilette, or Eau de Cologne

It is impossible to describe a perfume according to its components because the formulas are kept secret Even if the formulas are known, the ingredients are often too numerous to provide a useful classification Cognoscenti can, however, generally get a handle on the principal ingredients On the other hand, it is possible to group perfumes into olfactive families and describe them through the notes that appear as they slowly evaporate Perfumes can also be classified according to their concentration [1][2] [3]

[edit] Olfactive families

Fragrances can be classified into several olfactive families, by the themes, or accords, of these fragrances

Floral: Fragrances that are dominated by the scent of one or more types of flowers When only one flower is used, it is called a soliflore (as in Dior's Diorissimo, with lily of the valley)

Chypre: Fragrances built on a similar accord consisting of bergamot, oakmoss, pachouli, and labdanum This family of fragrances is named after a perfume by François Coty by the same name Meaning Cyprus in French, the term alludes to the inspiration behind the original creation

Aldehydic: Fragrances that incorporate the family of chemicals known as aldehydes Chanel No 5 was the first aldehydic perfume (created by the French perfumer Ernest Beaux in 1921) Others include Je Reviens and Arpege Aldehydic perfumes have the characteristic "piquant" note produced by materials like Aldehyde C12 MNA

Fougère: Fragrances built on a base of lavender, coumarin and oakmoss This fragrance family is named after Houbigant's Fougère Royale, which pioneered the use of this base Many men's fragrances belong to this family of fragrances, which is characterized by its sharp herbaceous and woody scent

Leather: A family of fragrances which features the scents honey, tobacco, wood, and wood tars in its middle or base notes and a scent that alludes to leather

Woody: Fragrances that are dominated by the woody scents, typically of sandalwood and cedar Patchouli, with its camphoraceous smell, is commonly found in these perfumes

Orientals or ambers: A large fragrance class featuring the scents of vanilla and animal scents together with flowers and woods Can be enhanced by camphorous oils and incense resins, which bring to mind Victorian era imagery of the Middle East and Far East

Citrus: An old fragrance family that until recently consisted mainly of "freshening" eau de colognes due to the low tenacity of citrus scents Development of newer fragrance compounds has allowed for the creation of primarily citrus fragrances

[edit] Fragrance notes

A mixture of alcohol and water is used as the solvent for the aromatics On application, body heat causes the solvent to quickly disperse, leaving the fragrance to evaporate gradually over several hours The rate of evaporation (vapor pressure) and the odor strength of the compound partly determine the tenacity of the compound and determine its perfume note classification

Top notes: Scents that are perceived immediately on application of a perfume Top notes create the scents that form a person's initial impression of a perfume Because of this, they are very important in the selling of a perfume The scents of this note class are usually described as "fresh," "assertive" or "sharp" The compounds that contribute to top notes are strong in scent, very volatile, and evaporate quickly Citrus and ginger scents are common top notes

Heart notes or Middle notes: The scent of a perfume that emerges after the top notes dissipate The heart note compounds form the "heart" or main body of a perfume and act to mask the often unpleasant initial impression of base notes, which become more pleasant with time Not surprisingly, the scent of heart note compounds is usually more mellow and "rounded" Scents from this note class appear anywhere from 2 minutes to 1 hour after the application of a perfume Lavender and rose scents are typical heart notes Top notes and heart notes are sometimes described together as Head notes

Base notes: The scent of a perfume that appears after the departure of the top notes The base and middle notes together are the main theme of a perfume Base notes bring depth and solidness to a perfume Compounds of this class are often the fixatives used to hold and boost the strength of the lighter top and heart notes The compounds of this class of scents are typically rich and "deep" and are usually not perceived until 30 minutes after the application of the perfume or during the period of perfume dry-down Musk, vetiver and scents of plant resins are commonly used as base notes

[edit] Concentration and composition

Perfumes oils, or the "juice" of perfume composition, are diluted with a suitable solvent to make the perfume more usable This is done because undiluted oils (natural or synthetic) contain high concentrations of volatile components that will likely result in allergic reactions and possibly injury when applied directly to skin or clothing

Although dilutions of the perfume oil can be done using solvents such as jojoba, fractionated coconut oil, and wax, the most common solvents for perfume oil dilution is ethanol or a mixture of ethanol and water The percent of perfume oil by volume in a perfume is listed as follows:

Perfume extract: 20%-40% aromatic compounds

Eau de parfum: 10-30% aromatic compounds

Eau de toilette: 5-20% aromatic compounds

Eau de cologne: 2-3% aromatic compounds

As the percentage of aromatic compounds decreases, the intensity and longevity of the scent decrease It should be noted that different perfumeries or perfume houses assign different amounts of oils to each of their perfumes As such, although the oil concentration of a perfume in eau de parfum (EDP) dilution will necessarily be higher than the same perfume in eau de toilette (EDT) form, the same trends may not necessarily apply to different perfume compositions much less across different perfume houses

Furthermore, some fragrances with the same product name but having a different concentration name may not only differ in their dillutions, but actually use different perfume oil mixtures altogether For instance, in order to make the EDT version of a fragrance brighter and fresher than its EDP, the EDT oil may be "tweaked" to contain slightly more top notes or less base notes In some cases, words such as "extrême" or "concentrée" appended to frangrance names might indicate completely different frangrances that relates only because of a similar perfume accord An instance to this would be Chanel‘s Pour Monsieur and Pour Monsieur Concentrée

[edit] Natural and synthetic aromatics

[edit] Plant sources

Plants have long been used in perfumery as a source of essential oils and aroma compounds These aromatics are usually secondary metabolites produced by plants as protection against herbivores, infections, as well as to attract pollinators Plants are by far the largest source of fragrant compounds used in perfumery The sources of these compounds may be derived from various parts of a plant A plant can offer more than one source of aromatics, for instance the aerial portions and seeds of coriander have remarkably different odors from each other Orange leaves, blossoms, and fruit zest are the respective sources of petit grain, neroli, and orange oils

Flowers and blossoms: Undoubtedly the largest source of aromatics Includes the flowers of several species of rose and jasmine, as well as osmanthus, mimosa, tuberose, as well as the blossoms of citrus and ylang-ylang trees Although not traditionally thought of as a flower, the unopened flower buds of the clove are also commonly used Orchid flowers are not commercially used to produce essential oils or absolutes, except in the case of vanilla, an orchid, which must be pollinated first and made into seed pods before use in perfumery

Leaves and twigs: Commonly used for perfumery are lavender leaf, patchouli, sage, violets, rosemary, and citrus leaves Sometimes leaves are valued for the "green" smell they bring to perfumes, examples of this include hay and tomato leaf

Roots, rhizomes and bulbs: Commonly used terrestrial portions in perfumery include iris rhizomes, vetiver roots, various rhizomes of the ginger family

Seeds: Commonly used seeds include tonka bean, coriander, caraway, cocoa, nutmeg, mace, cardamom, and anise

Fruits: Fresh fruits such as apples, strawberries, cherries unfortunately do not yield the expected odors when extracted; if such fragrance notes are found in a perfume, they are synthetic Notable exceptions include litsea cubeba, vanilla, and juniper berry The most commonly used fruits yield their aromatics from the rind; they include citrus such as oranges, lemons, limes, and grapefruit

Woods: Highly important in providing the base notes to a perfume, wood oils and distillates are indispensable in perfumery Commonly used woods include sandalwood, rosewood, agarwood, birch, cedar, juniper, and pine

Bark: Commonly used barks includes cinnamon and cascarilla The fragrant oil in sassafras root bark is also used either directly or purified for its main constituent, safrole, which is used in the synthesis of other fragrant compounds such as helional

Resins: Valued since antiquity, resins have been widely used in incense and perfumery Highly fragrant and antiseptic resins and resin-containing perfumes have been used by many cultures as medicines for a large variety of ailments Commonly used resins in perfumery include labdanum, frankincense/olibanum, myrrh, Peru balsam, gum benzoin Pine and fir resins are a particularly valued source of terpenes used in the organic synthesis of many other synthetic or naturally occurring aromatic compounds Some of what is called amber and copal in perfumery today is the resinous secretion of fossil conifers

Lichens: Commonly used lichen includes oakmoss and treemoss thalli

[edit] Animal sources

Musk: Originally derived from the musk sacs from the Asian musk deer, it has now been replaced by the use of synthetic musks due to its price and ethical issues

Civet: Also called Civet Musk, this is obtained from the odorous sacs of the civets, animals in the family Viverridae, related to the Mongoose

Castoreum: Obtained from the odorous sacs of the North American beaver

Ambergris: Lumps of oxidized fatty compounds, whose precursors were secreted and expelled by the Sperm Whale Ambergris is commonly referred as "amber" in perfumery and should not be confused with yellow amber, which is used in jewelry

Honeycomb: Distilled from the honeycomb of the Honeybee

[edit] Synthetic sources

Synthetic aromatics are created through organic synthesis from various chemical compounds that are obtained from petroleum distillates, pine resins, or other relatively cheap organic feedstock Synthetics can provide fragrances which are not found in nature For instance, Calone, a compound of synthetic origin, imparts a fresh ozonous metallic marine scent that is widely used in contemporary perfumes Synthetic aromatics are often used as an alternate source of compounds that are not easily obtained from natural sources For example, linalool and coumarin are both naturally occurring compounds that can be cheaply synthesized from terpenes Orchid scents (typically salicylates) are usually not obtained directly from the plant itself but are instead synthetically created to match the fragrant compounds found in various orchids

The majority of the world's synthetic aromatics are created by relatively few companies They include:

International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF)

Givaudan

Firmenich

Quest International

Takasago

Symrise

Mane SA

CPL

Each of these companies patent several processes for the production of aromatic synthetics annually

See Aroma compound

[edit] Obtaining natural odorants

Main article: Extraction (fragrance)

Before perfumes can be composed, the odorants used in various perfume compositions must first be obtained Synthetic odorants are produced through organic synthesis and purified Odorants from natural sources require the use of various methods to extract the aromatics from the raw materials The results of the extraction are either essential oils, absolutes, concretes, or butters, depending on the amount of waxes in the extracted product [4]

All these techniques will to a certain extent, distort the odour of the aromatic compounds obtained from the raw materials This is due to the use of heat, harsh solvents, or through exposure to oxygen in the extraction process which will denature the aromatic compounds, which either change their odour character or renders them odourless

Maceration/Solvent extraction: The most used and economically important technique for extracting aromatics in the modern perfume industry Raw materials are submerged in a solvent that can dissolve the desired aromatic compounds Maceration lasts anywhere from hours to months Fragrant compounds for woody and fibrous plant materials are often obtained in this manner as are all aromatics from animal sources The technique can also be used to extract odorants that are too volatile for distillation or easily denatured by heat Commonly used solvents for maceration/solvent extraction include hexane, and dimethyl ether The product of this process is called a "concrete"

Supercritical fluid extraction: A relatively new technique for extracting fragrant compounds from a raw material, which often employ Supercritical CO2 Due to the low heat of process and the relatively unreactive solvent used in the extraction, the fragrant compounds derived often closely resemble the original odour of the raw material

Ethanol extraction: A type of solvent extraction used to extract fragrant compounds directly from dry raw materials, as well as the impure oily compounds materials resulting from solvent extraction or enfleurage Ethanol extraction is not used to extract fragrance from fresh plant materials since these contain large quantities of water, which will also be extracted into the ethanol

Distillation: A common technique for obtaining aromatic compounds from plants, such as orange blossoms and roses The raw material is heated and the fragrant compounds are re-collected through condensation of the distilled vapour

Steam distillation: Steam from boiling water is passed through the raw material, which drives out their volatile fragrant compounds The condensate from distillation are settled in a Florentine flask This allows for the easy separation of the fragrant oils from the water The water collected from the condensate, which retains some of the fragrant compounds and oils from the raw material is called hydrosol and sometimes sold This is most commonly used for fresh plant materials such as flowers, leaves, and stems

Dry/destructive distillation: The raw materials are directly heated in a still without a carrier solvent such as water Fragrant compounds that are released from the raw material by the high heat often undergo anhydrous pyrolysis, which results in the formation of different fragrant compounds, and thus different fragrant notes This method is used to obtain fragrant compounds from fossil amber and fragrant woods where an intentional "burned" or "toasted" odour is desired

Expression: Raw material is squeezed or compressed and the oils are collected Of all raw materials, only the fragrant oils from the peels of fruits in the citrus family are extracted in this manner since the oil is present in large enough quantities as to make this extraction method economically feasible

Enfleurage: Absorption of aroma materials into wax and then extracting the odorous oil with alcohol Extraction by enfleurage was commonly used when distillation was not possible due to the fact that some fragrant compounds denature through high heat This technique is not commonly used in the present day industry due to its prohibitive cost and the existence of more efficient and effective extraction methods [2]

[edit] Fragrant extracts

Although fragrant extracts are known to the general public as the generic term "essential oils", a more specific language is used in the fragrance industry to describe the source, purity, and technique used to obtain a particular fragrant extract

Of these extracts, only absolutes, essential oils, and tinctures are directly used to formulate perfumes

Absolute: Fragrant materials that are purified from a pommade or concrete by soaking them in ethanol By using a slightly hydrophilic compound such as ethanol, most of the fragrant compounds from the waxy source materials can be extracted without dissolving any of the fragrantless waxy molecules Absolutes are usually found in the form of an oily liquid

Concrete: Fragrant materials that have been extracted from raw materials through solvent extraction using volatile hydrocarbons Concretes usually contain a large amount of wax due to the ease in which the solvents dissolve various hydrophobic compounds As such concretes are usually further purified through distillation or ethanol based solvent extraction Concretes are typically either waxy or resinous solids or thick oily liquids

Essential oil: Fragrant materials that have been extracted from a source material directly through distillation or expression and obtained in the form of an oily liquid Oils extracted through expression are sometimes called expression oils

Pomade: A fragrant mass of solid fat created from the enfleurage process, in which odorous compounds in raw materials are adsorbed into animal fats Pommades are found in the form of an oily and sticky solid

Tincture: Fragrant materials produced by directly soaking and infusing raw materials in ethanol Tinctures are typically thin liquids [2]

[edit] Composing perfumes

Perfume compositions are an important part of many industries ranging from the luxury goods sectors, food services industries, to manufacturers of various household chemicals The purpose of using perfume or fragrance compositions in these industries is to affect customers through their sense of smell and entice them into purchasing the perfume or perfumed product As such there is significant interest in producing a perfume formulation that people will find aesthetically pleasing

[edit] The Perfumer

The job of composing perfumes that will sell is left up to an expert on perfume composition or known in the fragrance industry as the perfumer They are also sometimes referred to affectionately as "the Nose" due to their fine sense of smell and skill in smell composition The perfumer is effectively an artist who is trained in depth on the concepts of fragrance aesthetics and who is capable of conveying abstract concepts and moods with their fragrance compositions At the most rudimentary level, a perfumer must not only have a keen knowledge of a large variety of fragrance ingredients and their smells, and be able to distinguish each of the fragrance ingredients whether alone or in combination with other frangrances As well, they must know how each ingredient reveals itself through time with other ingredients The job of the perfumer is very similar to that of flavourists, who compose smells and flavourants for many commercial food products

The composition of a perfume typically begins with a brief by the perfumer's employer or an outside customer The customers to the perfumer or their employers, are typically fashi

薰衣草主要代表的意思有：“等待爱情”、“纯洁”、“感恩”、“和平”以及“面对没有希望的爱，依然痴痴等待”等。

1、等待爱情

薰衣草拥有非常美丽的名字，也同样有着非常美好的寓意。在它的原产地欧洲，它是浪漫的象征，寓意着等待爱情。女孩子们都很喜欢浪漫，试想一下，在漫山遍野的薰衣草之中，牵着恋人的手，漫步于田野之间，互诉着爱的呢喃，是不是非常浪漫呢？

2、象征纯洁

在薰衣草的原产地欧洲，它还代表着纯洁。当地人认为，它是一种非常纯洁的花卉，能够净化心灵。此外，它是清净与感恩的象征，还能够寓意和平。

3、面对没有希望的爱，依然痴痴等待

在欧洲有着这样一个传说，一位来自天界的天使爱上了一位出身凡间的女孩。不过，天使和凡人是无法相恋的，所以天使摘掉了翅膀，化身凡人只为与她厮守终生。但是，这件事还是被天神知道了，天使被抓回天界，抹去记忆然后放逐到了人间。但是女孩毫不知情，依旧在在原来的地方等待着恋人的回来。又过去了很久，她最终化身成为一株紫色的薰衣草。所以它又有了这样一个含义。

没有害处。

薰衣草可以帮助人们进入深度睡眠，还能帮助缓解轻度失眠。

意见建议：任何东西都有两面性，只能适度，不能长期的处在这种状态下。

薰衣草精油的各种健康的好处包括以下内容：

驱虫剂：薰衣草精油的气味是有效的对多种类型的像蚊子，蠓，和飞蛾的错误。在裸露的皮肤外时，应防止这些恼人的叮咬涂一些薰衣草油。此外，如果你碰巧由这些错误之一咬伤，薰衣草精油具有抗发炎的特质，这将减少与相关的刺激和疼痛臭虫叮咬。

睡眠：薰衣草精油促进睡眠这使得它对于失眠的一种替代治疗一个共同的建议。对老年患者常见的研究都显示出增加他们的睡眠规律性，当他们正常睡眠的药物被替换一些薰衣草精油被放在他们的枕头下。这对人们这样一个轻松的影响，它往往能代替现代医学对睡眠问题。

神经系统：薰衣草精油有镇静的香味，这使得它一个很好的滋补神经和焦虑的问题。因此，它也可用于治疗偏头痛，头痛，抑郁，精神紧张和情绪压力有所帮助。清新的香气消除神经衰弱和不安，同时也越来越多的心理活动。它有一个良好的研究影响植物神经系统，这就是为什么它经常被用来作为一个失眠的治疗，也可以作为一种方法来调节心脏速率的变化。一项研究表明，人们服用试验呈显著减少精神紧张和焦虑，以及提高认知功能，当他们吸入薰衣草油，迷迭香油后再参加考试！

痤疮：根据皮肤科医生和香薰，薰衣草精油是在最有利的精油之一，治疗痤疮，这是一种非常不舒服和尴尬的状况，主要影响年轻人，因为他们移动通过青春期，也可以折磨的成年人。它的特点是在面部和身体红色，凸起疮是开发由于细菌感染附近的皮脂腺。当皮脂不能正确地从脸上的皮脂分泌，它开始建立起来，特别是因为青春期刺激额外的皮脂和细菌饲料关闭它，产生刺激作用的恶性循环，感染，可见溃疡，可能导致严重的疤痕。

薰衣草精油抑制引起初次感染的细菌，有助于通过激素处理来调节一些过度排泄皮脂，以及痤疮后可以减少疤痕的迹象已经开始愈合。加入少量薰衣草精油其他护肤霜或软膏可大大提高救济和愈合的潜力。

薰衣草（拉丁学名：Lavandula angustifolia Mill）又名香水植物，灵香草，香草，黄香草，拉文德。属双子叶植物纲、唇形科、薰衣草属的一种小灌木。茎直立，被星状绒毛，老枝灰褐色，具条状剥落的皮层。叶条形或披针状条形，被或疏或密的灰色星状绒毛，干时灰白色或橄榄绿色，全缘而外卷。轮伞花序在枝顶聚集成间断或近连续的穗状花序；苞片菱状卵形，小苞片不明显；花萼卵状筒形或近筒状；花冠长约为曹的二倍，筒直伸，在喉部内被腺状毛。小坚果椭圆形，光滑。

原产于地中海沿岸、欧洲各地及大洋洲列岛，后被广泛栽种于英国及南斯拉夫。其叶形花色优美典雅，蓝紫色花序颀长秀丽，是庭院中一种新的多年生耐寒花卉，适宜花径丛植或条植，也可盆栽观赏。

形态特征

薰衣草是半灌木或矮灌木，分枝，被星状绒毛，在幼嫩部分较密；老枝灰褐色或暗褐色，皮层作条状剥落，具有长的花枝及短的更新枝。叶线形或披针状线形，在花枝上的叶较大，疏离，长3-5厘米，宽03-05厘米，被密的或疏的灰色星状绒毛，干时灰白色或橄绿色，在更新枝上的叶小，簇生，长不超过17厘米，宽约02厘米，密被灰白色星状绒毛，干时灰白色，均先端钝，基部渐狭成极短柄，全缘，边缘外卷，中脉在下面隆起，侧脉及网脉不明显。

轮伞花序通常具6-10花，多数，在枝顶聚集成间断或近连续的穗状花序，穗状花序长约3（5）厘米，花序梗长约为花序本身3倍，密被星状绒毛；苞片菱状卵圆形，先端渐尖成钻状，具5-7脉，干时常带锈色，被星状绒毛，小苞片不明显；花具短梗，蓝色，密被灰色、分枝或不分枝绒毛。花萼卵状管形或近管形，长4-5毫米，13脉，内面近无毛，二唇形，上唇1齿较宽而长，下唇具4短齿，齿相等而明显。花冠长约为花萼的2倍，具13条脉纹，外面被与花萼同一毛被，但基部近无毛，内面在喉部及冠檐部分被腺状毛，中部具毛环，冠檐二唇形，上唇直伸，2裂，裂片较大，圆形，且彼此稍重叠，下唇开展，3裂，裂片较小。雄蕊4，着生在毛环上方，不外伸，前对较长，花丝扁平，无毛，花药被毛。花柱被毛，在先端压扁，卵圆形。花盘4浅裂，裂片与子房裂片对生。

小坚果4，椭圆形，光滑，有光泽，具有一基部着生面。花期6月。全株略带木头甜味的清淡香气，因花、叶和茎上的绒毛均藏有油腺，轻轻碰触油腺即破裂而释出香味。

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