jasmine中文意思是茉莉花,也可作为女子英文名,形容甜美纯洁的女孩。
jasmine:英 [ˈdʒæzmɪn] , 美 [ˈdʒæzmɪn]
双语例句:
I still believed that I would have the jasmine, the chrysanthemum, and the narcissus
但我相信,我还会拥有茉莉,秋菊和水仙。
扩展资料:
茉莉公主
中文名:茉莉公主
英文名:Jasmine(茉莉;茉莉公主)
生日:11月25日
年龄:15 岁
星座:射手座
身份:苏丹王国的公主
头发的颜色:一头乌黑亮丽的长发,喜欢用辫绳扎起来
眼睛的颜色:褐色的眼眸中充满了自信和智慧
性格特点:聪明;独立;有主见;喜欢冒险
好朋友:宠物老虎(西亚虎)乐雅和猴子阿布
公主心语:我不是一只待宰的羔羊!有了明确的人生目标,坚持自己的想法,你的生活由你来做主。
参考资料来源:百度百科-迪士尼公主
食品类词汇:
肉类 (carne)
小羊肉 agnello
牛肉 manzo
小牛肉 vitello
鹌鹑 quaglia sf
鸭 anatra sf
野鸡 fagiano
野禽类 selvaggina sf
排骨 costina sf
腿肉 coscia sf
肉片 fettine di carne sf
肝脏 fegato
舌 lingua sf
兔子 coniglio
肉块 scaloppina sf
鸽子 piccione sm
鸡肉 pollo
火鸡 tacchino
猪肉 maiale
腰子 rene sm
香肠 salame sm
里脊肉 filetto
火腿 prosciutto
鱼类 (pesci), 贝壳类 (crostacei)
凤尾鱼 acciuga
鳗鱼 anguilla
鱼子酱 caviale
螃蟹 granchio
小虾 gamberetto
海鲜 frutto di mare
龙虾 aragosta
牡蛎 ostrica
生蚝 ostrica cruda
鲈鱼 pesce persico
海胆 riccio di mare
蛤蜊 conchiglia
扇贝 pettine
沙丁鱼 sardina
鲑鱼 salmone
比目鱼 rombo
鳟鱼 trota
鱿鱼 calamaro
墨鱼 seppia
蔬菜类 (verdure)
芦笋 asparago
茄子 melanzana
罗勒 basilico
花菜 broccolo
胡萝卜 carota
芹菜 sedano
蘑菇 fungo
卷心菜 cavolo
洋葱 cipolla
黄瓜 cetriolo
南瓜 zucca
水芹 achillea
生菜沙拉 insalata cruda
葱 porro
菠菜 spinaci
茴香 finocchio
四季豆 fagiolini
莴苣 lattuga
小扁豆 lenticchia
豌豆 pisello
辣椒 peperone
马铃薯 patata
西红柿 pomodoro
动物类:
nanny 雌山羊
nightingale 夜莺
Norway lobster 蝉虾
octopus 章鱼
orangutan 猩猩
ostrich 鸵鸟
otter 水獭
owl 枭,猫头鹰
ox 牛
oyster 牡蛎
pale clouded yellow 纹黄蝶
panther, puma 美洲豹
parakeet 长尾鹦鹉
parrot 鹦鹉
partridge 石鸡, 鹧鸪
peacock 孔雀
pelican 鹈鹕
植物类:
rose 玫瑰花
tulip 郁金香
balsam 凤仙花
canna 美人蕉
lily 百合花
jasmine 茉莉
sweet pea 香豌豆花
sunflower 向日葵
geranium 大竺葵
morning-glory 牵牛花
cosmos 大波斯菊
pansy 三色堇
poppy **花
marigold 金盏花
carnation 麝香石竹
amaryllis 孤挺花
dahlia 大丽花
pink 石竹花
玩具类:
toy 玩具
bauble 小玩意儿
knickknack 小玩意儿
plaything 玩具
game 游戏
rag baby 娃娃玩具
peashooter 玩具枪
water gun 玩具水枪
minicar 玩具车
teddy bear 玩具熊
dollhouse 玩具小屋
LEGO 乐高(著名的积木玩具厂商,基本已经成为积木的代名词了)
家电类:
flashlight 手电筒
fluorescent lamp 日光灯
electric calculator 计算器
tube 真空管
electric fan 电风扇
dictaphone, dictating machine 录音机
tape recorder 磁带
television 电视机
electric iron 电熨斗
electric foot warmer 暖脚器
electric shaver 电动剃须刀
electric cooker 电饭锅
electric heater 电暖气
electric vacuum cleaner 吸尘器
bulb 电灯泡
electronic oven 电烤箱
radio 收音机
microphone 麦克风
loud-speaker 扩音机
日常生活用品:
cosmetics 化妆用品
stationery 文具
fabrics 纺织品
dry goods 服装
ready-made clothes, off-the-peg, ready-to-wear 成衣,现成服装
men's wear 男服
women's wear 女服
underwear 内衣裤
sports goods, athletic equipment 体育用品
sundries 零星小物
toilet articles 盥洗用品
towel 毛巾
handkerchief 手帕
toilet soap 香皂
shampoo 洗发香波
soap 肥皂
laundry soap 洗衣皂
soap powder 肥皂粉
soap flakes 皂片
medicated soap 药皂
detergent 洗衣粉
cleanser 去污粉
tooth paste 牙膏
tooth brush 牙刷
toilet mirror 梳妆镜
hair brush 发刷
hair vaseline 发蜡
cosmetics 化妆品
lipstic 口红, 唇膏
face powder 粉
compact 粉盒
powder puff 粉扑
cold cream 香脂
vanishing cream 雪花膏
perfume, scent 香水
perfume spray 香水喷子
coat hanger 挂衣架
clothes-peg, clothes pin 晒衣夹
string bag, net bag 网兜
thermos bottle 热水瓶
1、可帮助身体恢复机能
多数的植物精油都是药用植物都具有疗效,能帮助身体达到平衡、提升自愈能力。
2、对心灵层面有帮助
精油可促使脑内啡形成,对神经系统产生影响,改善人们思考模式、情绪状态及抒解压力。
3、不会对身体造成负担
精油是由植物取得,身体会自然代谢,只要使用得当,不会对身体造成负担,但是人工香氛就会残留在体内,严重还会使身体产生病变。
二、不同植物精油的作用
1、玫瑰:提升精神,愉悦心情,调节月经周期,提高性欲。
2、薰衣草:能净化安抚神经,镇静效果,降血压,治失眠,创伤。
3、茉莉:在沮丧时是最有效的处方,淡化妊娠纹和疤痕。
4、桂花:消除沮丧心情绪,调价安抚作用,有益于伤口,消肿。
5、海风、;采集海生藻类植物及海岩综合而成,带来海洋气息。
三、用法
精油的使用方法很多:直接吸闻法、熏香法、熏蒸法、沐浴法、按摩法、湿敷法、护肤法。
1、直接吸闻法
最简单的方法,就是将它滴在装满热水的杯子里,顿时怡人的香味立即充满整个屋子。这样让香气散溢在室内,我们称为“香薰蒸气”。香薰精油原本就是挥发性高的油质,所以只要打开瓶盖,香味就会四散。在鼻塞的时候,只要直接将薄荷香薰精油的瓶盖打开,置于身旁,就可舒缓鼻塞的症状。
2、熏香法
熏香是指将精油滴加到扩香工具上,让精油的香氛扩散到每个角落,以达到杀菌、净化空气效果的一种精油使用方法。同时,精油分子也可清洁和净化呼吸系统,缓解肺部不适。
3、熏蒸法
在水盆中加入热水,滴入1-3滴香薰精油,让冒起的蒸气薰拂脸部(需先卸妆并洗脸),为了让蒸气不流散,可以用大毛巾盖住整个头部。大概持续10分钟左右,让香薰精油的成分可以深入肌肤。这个方式可以畅通呼吸道,对于干咳、流涕都有很好的效果。
4、沐浴法
将香薰精油滴在比体温稍高的洗澡水里,让身体浸泡一下,这叫做“香薰泡澡”。除了全身浸泡外,在工作或做家事时,也可以偷闲浸泡一下手或脚,让心情更舒畅。所选择的香薰精油,最好适合当时的身心状态,同时再加上按摩,会有更好的放松效果。
5、按摩法 按摩可促使精油在最短的时间内被皮肤吸收,对皮肤有极佳的保养作用,并可加速血液循环,达到放松肌肉、舒缓心情的效果。如果搭配香薰精油一起进行,就是所谓的“香薰按摩”。
面部按摩:调油比例1%,即在10 毫升基础油中加入2-3 滴单方精油。
身体按摩:调油比例25%,即10 毫升基础油中加入5-8 滴单方精油。
注 意:敏感皮肤使用前需皮试。
6、湿敷法
根据各种香薰精油的功效,除了以按摩油直接涂抹在皮肤上,精油湿敷也是一种常见的精油使用方法,将棉纱布放入含精油的冷水或热水中浸湿,敷于患处,可帮助精油深层渗透,改善多种身体问题。
热敷是种很好的香薰疗法,不但可以温热疲惫的身躯,也能舒缓身心的紧张。用毛巾热敷,可以让血管扩张,皮肤的吸收功能变佳,对于肩膀疾痛、腰痛、头痛、生理痛等各种疼痛,具有镇痛效果的薰衣草、罗马洋甘菊、天竺葵。
7护肤法
在常用的植物性护肤品中,适当添加精油,因为精油分子极其微小,能够迅速渗入表皮层,进入体内循环。添加精油后,护肤品更易吸收。例如添加了玫瑰精油后,即使是普通的美白产品,也能很快看到明显效果。在补水、抗皱和紧致肌肤方面,精油也有着令人惊叹的效果。
扩展资料:
使用精油的注意事项
1不可直接使用(薰衣草、茶树可以小剂量、小面积的直接使用在皮肤上)
由于单方精油浓度很高,除非有专人指导下,否则只有「熏衣草、茶树」是可以直接使用的精油,直接以纯精油涂抹身体,易造成剂量过高或过于刺激皮肤。
2剂量
使用的剂量不可超过5%。大体而言,一般的10ml精油可滴出约200d,因此5%的浓度约10d。如果要调配基础油,10ml基础油滴入少于10滴精油即是安全剂量。
3调配
使用厂商调配好的复方精油,就比较没有调配上的问题,若喜欢自行调配者,请注意每次不可超过3种精油,且使用复方比单方安全。
4过敏测试
过敏体质的人,必定要做过敏测试。
5避免混淆
精油有国外进口的,也有国产的,故有些名称并不相同,在购买使用上,认清精油的英文或学名,较不容易弄错。
6避免误食
小心存放,勿让孩童误食
7注意保存
纯精油怕光、怕高温氧化,要选用深瓶子盛装,最好放在恒温三十度以下的阴暗处
8避免光敏感
许多精油含有呋喃香豆素,会引起光敏反应,使用于脸部后数小时内不可接受日晒以免皮肤变黑。如:佛手柑、柠檬、莱姆、欧白芷等
9不可取代医疗
精油虽有很好的疗效,对于身心平衡也很有帮助,不过若有急症仍旧要就医,以芳香疗法来辅助医学,当成日常保健、解除慢性病痛、改善不良精油的状态的工具是较安全的使用心态。
精油使用小贴士:
精油的价位很多种。价格通常会受很多因素的影响,如丰收情况,有些国家的精油要比其他国家精油贵,绝大多数有机的精油要比其他精油昂贵。
如果患有呼吸困难或其他及其严重的病症,不要自己尝试通过芳疗治疗,而是应该去看医生。
不要购买盛装在透明玻璃容器中的精油,这些容器会将精油暴露在阳光下,最终会影响精油的原有属性。
塑料的容器会污染芳疗精油,精油不应该储存在塑料容器中。
当你在本地购买精油时,不要购买容器上布满灰尘的精油,这时精油存放太久的一种标志。
参考资料来源:百度百科-香薰精油
应该是
Jasmine
GINGER吧?!貌似是个美国的牌子
essence
of
beauty是指化妆品之类的泛指
essence是精华液的意思
颜色:
blue蓝色
purple紫色
black黑色
white白色
indigo青色
brown棕色
green绿色
pink粉红色
red红色
orange橙色
silver银色
yellow**
cofffee咖啡色
衣物:
suit and tie 西装和领带
casual dress 非正式服装
jeans 牛仔服
T-shirt T恤衫
pullover 套头毛衣
sweater 运动衫 套头衫
dress 女服,童装
vest 背心 内衣
skirt 裙子
jacket 夹克
coat 外套
tailcoat 燕尾服
tuxedo 无尾礼服
pants 裤子(美) trousers (英)
Shorts 短裤
cardigan 领开口的羊毛衫
Track Suit 运动外套
hoody 头巾
garment 外衣
uniform 制服
blouse 宽松的上衣
Swimwear 游泳衣
hat 有檐的帽子
cap 帽子
attire 服装
Sandals 便鞋
Boots 靴子
blazer 颜色鲜明的运动夹克
maternity 孕妇装
sleepwear 睡衣
robes 长袍
handbag 手提包
socks 袜子
食物:
F--fish,鱼french fries,炸薯条
J---jam,果酱juice果汁,jello,果冻
Q---Quiche(在意大利面食里,放有蛋,芝士或是菜的食物)
U--Unsweetened Chocolate (不加糖巧克力)
X、
Y---yam红薯, yogurt酸奶
Z--ziti(一种意大利面食物 )
职业:
doctor医生,nurse护士,driver司机,swimmer游泳者,
reporter记者,footballer足球运动员,MBA篮球运动员,dancer舞蹈家,photographer摄影师,
steward服务员,teacher教师,air steward空中**, Movement 运动者,professor教授,cook厨师,
agent代理人,Translators翻译家,singer歌唱家,
Scientists 科学家,Writer 作家
数字:
one two three four five six seven eight nine ten eleven twelve thirteen fourteen fifteen sixteen seventeen eighteen nineteen twenty twenty-one twenty-two twenty-three twenty-four twenty-five twenty-six twenty-seven twenty-eight twenty-nine thirty thirty-one thirty-two thirty-three thirty-four thirty-five thirty-six thirty-seven thirty-eight thirty-nine forty forty-one forty-two forty-three forty-four forty-five forty-six forty-seven forty-eight forty-nine fifty
动物:
cat
duck
bird
chick
swan
rabbit
fox
squirrel
rat
pig
交通工具:
car 小汽车
truck 卡车
jeep 吉普车
train 火车
plane 飞机
ship 轮船
boat 小船
bus 公共汽
蔬菜水果:
celery 芹菜
Chinese white cabbage 白菜
lettuce生菜
spinach菠菜
bitter gourd苦瓜
cucumber黄瓜
marrow西葫芦
pumpkin南瓜
winter melon冬瓜
potato土豆
sweet potato红薯
carrot胡萝卜
aubergine茄子
tomato西红柿
mushroom蘑菇
edible tree fungus木耳
tremella银耳
cherry樱桃
coconut椰子
grape葡萄
grapefruit西柚
kiwi fruit猕猴桃
lemon柠檬
longan龙眼
lychee荔枝
mango芒果
mangosteen山竹
mandarin orange柑橘
olive橄榄
peach桃
pear梨
plum李子
Hami melon哈密瓜
melon甜瓜
papaya木瓜
honeydew melon蜜瓜
pineapple菠萝
sugarcane甘蔗
strawberry草莓
天气:
1 weather
2 wea
Examples:
1 天气怎么样?
What's the weather like
2 炎热天气一直持续到十月。
The hot weather extended into October
3 寒冷的天气抑制了植物的生长。
Cold weather constrains the plant's growth
4 因为天气不好,他们的旅行计划取消了。
Their travel plan was cancelled because of the bad weather
5 昨天天气普遍晴朗。
Fair weather was the rule yesterday
6 阴沉的天气让我们都感到压抑。
We were all depressed by the dismal weather
7 天气预报说明天是晴天。
The weather forecast says it will be sunny tomorrow
8 他们在恶劣的天气条件下登上了山的顶峰。
They climbed up the last part of the mountain in formidable weather conditions
暴风雨天气
wild weather
天气雷达
weather radar
天气过程
weather process
天气谚语
weather lore
天气报告
weather advisory
坏天气
villainous weather
坏天气
vile weather
寒冷天气
shivery weather
好天气
propitious weather
天气weather
晴天sunshine fine
多云cloudy
阴天overcast sky cloudy sky
小雨flurry spit sprinkle
中雨middle rain
大雨drencher ding-on downfall soak spate
暴雨rainstorm
阵风flatus flurry gust
微风breeze breath breathing breezee gentle breeze
台风typhoon
龙卷风cyclone tornado
雾brume fog mist reek
雪grue sonw
霜frost hoarfrost
冰雹hail hailstone
生活用品: articles for daily use, daily goods, living goods
学习用品: learning goods, articles for learning, articles for studying, learning tools, learning instrument
Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils and aroma compounds, fixatives, and solvents used to give the human body, objects, and living spaces a pleasant smell The amount and type of solvent mix with the fragrance oil dictates whether a perfume is considered a perfume extract, Eau de parfum, Eau de toilette, or Eau de Cologne
It is impossible to describe a perfume according to its components because the formulas are kept secret Even if the formulas are known, the ingredients are often too numerous to provide a useful classification Cognoscenti can, however, generally get a handle on the principal ingredients On the other hand, it is possible to group perfumes into olfactive families and describe them through the notes that appear as they slowly evaporate Perfumes can also be classified according to their concentration [1][2] [3]
[edit] Olfactive families
Fragrances can be classified into several olfactive families, by the themes, or accords, of these fragrances
Floral: Fragrances that are dominated by the scent of one or more types of flowers When only one flower is used, it is called a soliflore (as in Dior's Diorissimo, with lily of the valley)
Chypre: Fragrances built on a similar accord consisting of bergamot, oakmoss, pachouli, and labdanum This family of fragrances is named after a perfume by François Coty by the same name Meaning Cyprus in French, the term alludes to the inspiration behind the original creation
Aldehydic: Fragrances that incorporate the family of chemicals known as aldehydes Chanel No 5 was the first aldehydic perfume (created by the French perfumer Ernest Beaux in 1921) Others include Je Reviens and Arpege Aldehydic perfumes have the characteristic "piquant" note produced by materials like Aldehyde C12 MNA
Fougère: Fragrances built on a base of lavender, coumarin and oakmoss This fragrance family is named after Houbigant's Fougère Royale, which pioneered the use of this base Many men's fragrances belong to this family of fragrances, which is characterized by its sharp herbaceous and woody scent
Leather: A family of fragrances which features the scents honey, tobacco, wood, and wood tars in its middle or base notes and a scent that alludes to leather
Woody: Fragrances that are dominated by the woody scents, typically of sandalwood and cedar Patchouli, with its camphoraceous smell, is commonly found in these perfumes
Orientals or ambers: A large fragrance class featuring the scents of vanilla and animal scents together with flowers and woods Can be enhanced by camphorous oils and incense resins, which bring to mind Victorian era imagery of the Middle East and Far East
Citrus: An old fragrance family that until recently consisted mainly of "freshening" eau de colognes due to the low tenacity of citrus scents Development of newer fragrance compounds has allowed for the creation of primarily citrus fragrances
[edit] Fragrance notes
A mixture of alcohol and water is used as the solvent for the aromatics On application, body heat causes the solvent to quickly disperse, leaving the fragrance to evaporate gradually over several hours The rate of evaporation (vapor pressure) and the odor strength of the compound partly determine the tenacity of the compound and determine its perfume note classification
Top notes: Scents that are perceived immediately on application of a perfume Top notes create the scents that form a person's initial impression of a perfume Because of this, they are very important in the selling of a perfume The scents of this note class are usually described as "fresh," "assertive" or "sharp" The compounds that contribute to top notes are strong in scent, very volatile, and evaporate quickly Citrus and ginger scents are common top notes
Heart notes or Middle notes: The scent of a perfume that emerges after the top notes dissipate The heart note compounds form the "heart" or main body of a perfume and act to mask the often unpleasant initial impression of base notes, which become more pleasant with time Not surprisingly, the scent of heart note compounds is usually more mellow and "rounded" Scents from this note class appear anywhere from 2 minutes to 1 hour after the application of a perfume Lavender and rose scents are typical heart notes Top notes and heart notes are sometimes described together as Head notes
Base notes: The scent of a perfume that appears after the departure of the top notes The base and middle notes together are the main theme of a perfume Base notes bring depth and solidness to a perfume Compounds of this class are often the fixatives used to hold and boost the strength of the lighter top and heart notes The compounds of this class of scents are typically rich and "deep" and are usually not perceived until 30 minutes after the application of the perfume or during the period of perfume dry-down Musk, vetiver and scents of plant resins are commonly used as base notes
[edit] Concentration and composition
Perfumes oils, or the "juice" of perfume composition, are diluted with a suitable solvent to make the perfume more usable This is done because undiluted oils (natural or synthetic) contain high concentrations of volatile components that will likely result in allergic reactions and possibly injury when applied directly to skin or clothing
Although dilutions of the perfume oil can be done using solvents such as jojoba, fractionated coconut oil, and wax, the most common solvents for perfume oil dilution is ethanol or a mixture of ethanol and water The percent of perfume oil by volume in a perfume is listed as follows:
Perfume extract: 20%-40% aromatic compounds
Eau de parfum: 10-30% aromatic compounds
Eau de toilette: 5-20% aromatic compounds
Eau de cologne: 2-3% aromatic compounds
As the percentage of aromatic compounds decreases, the intensity and longevity of the scent decrease It should be noted that different perfumeries or perfume houses assign different amounts of oils to each of their perfumes As such, although the oil concentration of a perfume in eau de parfum (EDP) dilution will necessarily be higher than the same perfume in eau de toilette (EDT) form, the same trends may not necessarily apply to different perfume compositions much less across different perfume houses
Furthermore, some fragrances with the same product name but having a different concentration name may not only differ in their dillutions, but actually use different perfume oil mixtures altogether For instance, in order to make the EDT version of a fragrance brighter and fresher than its EDP, the EDT oil may be "tweaked" to contain slightly more top notes or less base notes In some cases, words such as "extrême" or "concentrée" appended to frangrance names might indicate completely different frangrances that relates only because of a similar perfume accord An instance to this would be Chanel‘s Pour Monsieur and Pour Monsieur Concentrée
[edit] Natural and synthetic aromatics
[edit] Plant sources
Plants have long been used in perfumery as a source of essential oils and aroma compounds These aromatics are usually secondary metabolites produced by plants as protection against herbivores, infections, as well as to attract pollinators Plants are by far the largest source of fragrant compounds used in perfumery The sources of these compounds may be derived from various parts of a plant A plant can offer more than one source of aromatics, for instance the aerial portions and seeds of coriander have remarkably different odors from each other Orange leaves, blossoms, and fruit zest are the respective sources of petit grain, neroli, and orange oils
Flowers and blossoms: Undoubtedly the largest source of aromatics Includes the flowers of several species of rose and jasmine, as well as osmanthus, mimosa, tuberose, as well as the blossoms of citrus and ylang-ylang trees Although not traditionally thought of as a flower, the unopened flower buds of the clove are also commonly used Orchid flowers are not commercially used to produce essential oils or absolutes, except in the case of vanilla, an orchid, which must be pollinated first and made into seed pods before use in perfumery
Leaves and twigs: Commonly used for perfumery are lavender leaf, patchouli, sage, violets, rosemary, and citrus leaves Sometimes leaves are valued for the "green" smell they bring to perfumes, examples of this include hay and tomato leaf
Roots, rhizomes and bulbs: Commonly used terrestrial portions in perfumery include iris rhizomes, vetiver roots, various rhizomes of the ginger family
Seeds: Commonly used seeds include tonka bean, coriander, caraway, cocoa, nutmeg, mace, cardamom, and anise
Fruits: Fresh fruits such as apples, strawberries, cherries unfortunately do not yield the expected odors when extracted; if such fragrance notes are found in a perfume, they are synthetic Notable exceptions include litsea cubeba, vanilla, and juniper berry The most commonly used fruits yield their aromatics from the rind; they include citrus such as oranges, lemons, limes, and grapefruit
Woods: Highly important in providing the base notes to a perfume, wood oils and distillates are indispensable in perfumery Commonly used woods include sandalwood, rosewood, agarwood, birch, cedar, juniper, and pine
Bark: Commonly used barks includes cinnamon and cascarilla The fragrant oil in sassafras root bark is also used either directly or purified for its main constituent, safrole, which is used in the synthesis of other fragrant compounds such as helional
Resins: Valued since antiquity, resins have been widely used in incense and perfumery Highly fragrant and antiseptic resins and resin-containing perfumes have been used by many cultures as medicines for a large variety of ailments Commonly used resins in perfumery include labdanum, frankincense/olibanum, myrrh, Peru balsam, gum benzoin Pine and fir resins are a particularly valued source of terpenes used in the organic synthesis of many other synthetic or naturally occurring aromatic compounds Some of what is called amber and copal in perfumery today is the resinous secretion of fossil conifers
Lichens: Commonly used lichen includes oakmoss and treemoss thalli
[edit] Animal sources
Musk: Originally derived from the musk sacs from the Asian musk deer, it has now been replaced by the use of synthetic musks due to its price and ethical issues
Civet: Also called Civet Musk, this is obtained from the odorous sacs of the civets, animals in the family Viverridae, related to the Mongoose
Castoreum: Obtained from the odorous sacs of the North American beaver
Ambergris: Lumps of oxidized fatty compounds, whose precursors were secreted and expelled by the Sperm Whale Ambergris is commonly referred as "amber" in perfumery and should not be confused with yellow amber, which is used in jewelry
Honeycomb: Distilled from the honeycomb of the Honeybee
[edit] Synthetic sources
Synthetic aromatics are created through organic synthesis from various chemical compounds that are obtained from petroleum distillates, pine resins, or other relatively cheap organic feedstock Synthetics can provide fragrances which are not found in nature For instance, Calone, a compound of synthetic origin, imparts a fresh ozonous metallic marine scent that is widely used in contemporary perfumes Synthetic aromatics are often used as an alternate source of compounds that are not easily obtained from natural sources For example, linalool and coumarin are both naturally occurring compounds that can be cheaply synthesized from terpenes Orchid scents (typically salicylates) are usually not obtained directly from the plant itself but are instead synthetically created to match the fragrant compounds found in various orchids
The majority of the world's synthetic aromatics are created by relatively few companies They include:
International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF)
Givaudan
Firmenich
Quest International
Takasago
Symrise
Mane SA
CPL
Each of these companies patent several processes for the production of aromatic synthetics annually
See Aroma compound
[edit] Obtaining natural odorants
Main article: Extraction (fragrance)
Before perfumes can be composed, the odorants used in various perfume compositions must first be obtained Synthetic odorants are produced through organic synthesis and purified Odorants from natural sources require the use of various methods to extract the aromatics from the raw materials The results of the extraction are either essential oils, absolutes, concretes, or butters, depending on the amount of waxes in the extracted product [4]
All these techniques will to a certain extent, distort the odour of the aromatic compounds obtained from the raw materials This is due to the use of heat, harsh solvents, or through exposure to oxygen in the extraction process which will denature the aromatic compounds, which either change their odour character or renders them odourless
Maceration/Solvent extraction: The most used and economically important technique for extracting aromatics in the modern perfume industry Raw materials are submerged in a solvent that can dissolve the desired aromatic compounds Maceration lasts anywhere from hours to months Fragrant compounds for woody and fibrous plant materials are often obtained in this manner as are all aromatics from animal sources The technique can also be used to extract odorants that are too volatile for distillation or easily denatured by heat Commonly used solvents for maceration/solvent extraction include hexane, and dimethyl ether The product of this process is called a "concrete"
Supercritical fluid extraction: A relatively new technique for extracting fragrant compounds from a raw material, which often employ Supercritical CO2 Due to the low heat of process and the relatively unreactive solvent used in the extraction, the fragrant compounds derived often closely resemble the original odour of the raw material
Ethanol extraction: A type of solvent extraction used to extract fragrant compounds directly from dry raw materials, as well as the impure oily compounds materials resulting from solvent extraction or enfleurage Ethanol extraction is not used to extract fragrance from fresh plant materials since these contain large quantities of water, which will also be extracted into the ethanol
Distillation: A common technique for obtaining aromatic compounds from plants, such as orange blossoms and roses The raw material is heated and the fragrant compounds are re-collected through condensation of the distilled vapour
Steam distillation: Steam from boiling water is passed through the raw material, which drives out their volatile fragrant compounds The condensate from distillation are settled in a Florentine flask This allows for the easy separation of the fragrant oils from the water The water collected from the condensate, which retains some of the fragrant compounds and oils from the raw material is called hydrosol and sometimes sold This is most commonly used for fresh plant materials such as flowers, leaves, and stems
Dry/destructive distillation: The raw materials are directly heated in a still without a carrier solvent such as water Fragrant compounds that are released from the raw material by the high heat often undergo anhydrous pyrolysis, which results in the formation of different fragrant compounds, and thus different fragrant notes This method is used to obtain fragrant compounds from fossil amber and fragrant woods where an intentional "burned" or "toasted" odour is desired
Expression: Raw material is squeezed or compressed and the oils are collected Of all raw materials, only the fragrant oils from the peels of fruits in the citrus family are extracted in this manner since the oil is present in large enough quantities as to make this extraction method economically feasible
Enfleurage: Absorption of aroma materials into wax and then extracting the odorous oil with alcohol Extraction by enfleurage was commonly used when distillation was not possible due to the fact that some fragrant compounds denature through high heat This technique is not commonly used in the present day industry due to its prohibitive cost and the existence of more efficient and effective extraction methods [2]
[edit] Fragrant extracts
Although fragrant extracts are known to the general public as the generic term "essential oils", a more specific language is used in the fragrance industry to describe the source, purity, and technique used to obtain a particular fragrant extract
Of these extracts, only absolutes, essential oils, and tinctures are directly used to formulate perfumes
Absolute: Fragrant materials that are purified from a pommade or concrete by soaking them in ethanol By using a slightly hydrophilic compound such as ethanol, most of the fragrant compounds from the waxy source materials can be extracted without dissolving any of the fragrantless waxy molecules Absolutes are usually found in the form of an oily liquid
Concrete: Fragrant materials that have been extracted from raw materials through solvent extraction using volatile hydrocarbons Concretes usually contain a large amount of wax due to the ease in which the solvents dissolve various hydrophobic compounds As such concretes are usually further purified through distillation or ethanol based solvent extraction Concretes are typically either waxy or resinous solids or thick oily liquids
Essential oil: Fragrant materials that have been extracted from a source material directly through distillation or expression and obtained in the form of an oily liquid Oils extracted through expression are sometimes called expression oils
Pomade: A fragrant mass of solid fat created from the enfleurage process, in which odorous compounds in raw materials are adsorbed into animal fats Pommades are found in the form of an oily and sticky solid
Tincture: Fragrant materials produced by directly soaking and infusing raw materials in ethanol Tinctures are typically thin liquids [2]
[edit] Composing perfumes
Perfume compositions are an important part of many industries ranging from the luxury goods sectors, food services industries, to manufacturers of various household chemicals The purpose of using perfume or fragrance compositions in these industries is to affect customers through their sense of smell and entice them into purchasing the perfume or perfumed product As such there is significant interest in producing a perfume formulation that people will find aesthetically pleasing
[edit] The Perfumer
The job of composing perfumes that will sell is left up to an expert on perfume composition or known in the fragrance industry as the perfumer They are also sometimes referred to affectionately as "the Nose" due to their fine sense of smell and skill in smell composition The perfumer is effectively an artist who is trained in depth on the concepts of fragrance aesthetics and who is capable of conveying abstract concepts and moods with their fragrance compositions At the most rudimentary level, a perfumer must not only have a keen knowledge of a large variety of fragrance ingredients and their smells, and be able to distinguish each of the fragrance ingredients whether alone or in combination with other frangrances As well, they must know how each ingredient reveals itself through time with other ingredients The job of the perfumer is very similar to that of flavourists, who compose smells and flavourants for many commercial food products
The composition of a perfume typically begins with a brief by the perfumer's employer or an outside customer The customers to the perfumer or their employers, are typically fashi
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